Rock climbing video - Ali Baba by Mathieu Bouyoud & climbers at Aiglun, France

Uploaded by MilletTube on 12.10.2011

So, let’s go !
It’s chilly.
The approach there, it’s already a good training
From the beginning you must climb hardly. You must struggle to get to the rock face!
I heard a lot about it
And I was undecided
I had to find someone else who would climb with me
Someone strong enough to climb this rock face
I have been training a lot for a month
Trying to climb the most at level 8
That represents 240 meters
The total inclination must be
of 60 meter overhanging
Six pitches in grade 8. Thus, a total of eight pitches
The first time, I did the first four pitches on-sight ascent
After this, I fell down as I was almost at the top of a level 8a+ pitch
I tried a second time but I fell down again when I was almost at the top
Aftewards, I gave up, I had not strength left for the last pitches
The day after, I achieved the climbing and I did all right at the first attempt.
You climb on overhanging walls
It is a multi-pitch climbing with pillars, halls,
and a rather fantastic rock
"Come on Mathieu!"
What is really amazing is the overhanging
For each pitch, the overhanging is of 5 to 10 meter more.
At each belay station, we try to make a break of 20 min.
In order to think about the next climbing and to manage our strengths
And at the third belay station, there is a a good ledge, really pleasant
Where you can sit and eat
From that ledge, you will start to scramble the main pitches
It's a hard start with a 8a
And then three 8a+, the main pitches
The first 8a+ has a rather homogeneous difficulty
There are maybe 40 to 50 techniques
So, again you must manage your strenghts as you climb in order to finish well
Every pitch is fantastic
For a one pitch wonder, it would represent a four stars climbing!
At the first, you can start climbing from the ground
But the others are higher. You must scramble to reach them
You must be really willing to do it!
You also must be organized,
you must be accompanied by a second climber
who would help you to haul the bag and to handle the rope
There is a sort of logistic
You must only concentrate on the climbing, your movement
Just climbing and nothing else!
Nina, Adam Ondra
Arnaud Petit were here
And I was myself here. So we are now more or less 6 people having climbed these walls
We are not so many because it's a great deal of effort
That probably most people don't like
At the beginning, there was no wind
But during the two last pitches, we saw the storm coming
It was cloudy, it was about to rain. So, we made fewer breaks
At the last pitch, we hurried up because the rain was close
We did the three last pitches very fast and ended up
Hopefully, the rain didn't come
It was a good end