CONVERT WATER INTO FUEL - DIY OXYHYDROGEN GENERATOR!!


Uploaded by 01032010814 on 02.08.2012

Transcript:
If you like the idea of alternative energy,
What if you could build a device that would
turn ordinary water into an extremely
powerful fuel?
For this project I've got to find some
stainless steel. I'm at a local fabrication
company, and not only do they have plenty of
scrap metal to choose from, they're even
willing to help me cut it to custom sizes.
A job that would have taken me hours with
a pair of tin snips and a hack saw, only
takes a matter of minutes with their
equipment. This is 20 gauge stainless steel,
and this hydraulic punch is being used to cut
precise holes in the tops and bottoms of
the plates. When finished, I have 12 plates
measuring 3" x 6", 4 plates at 1 1/2" x 6",
and three 1" connector bands that are
6", 4 1/2", and 3 1/4". A belt sander is
perfect for smoothing down the jagged edges
around the hole, and now it's time to head
home and get to work. I'll need these 4"
ABS cleanout fittings, 3/8" poly tubing,
as well as some scrap 4" and 2" acrylic
tubing I found at a plastics company. When
I peel the protective layer from the plates,
it reveals a beautiful and attractive surface.
But that's not what I want for this project.
Instead, I'll need to hunt down some sandpaper.
This is 100 grit, and I'll place 2 plates in
a diamond shape, and sand from top to bottom,
then rotate 90 degrees, and repeat. These
scuff marks will increase the surface area
on the plates and increase the efficiency of
the generator. Ok, I've finished off both
sides of the plates and you can see the
criss-cross pattern etched into the metal.
The 1 1/2" plates are sanded as well, but
the 3 connector bands are not. Alright, it's
time to cut this acrylic tubing to size, so
I'm using a chop saw to trim this edge smooth,
then I'll measure 7", and cut nice and slowly
so that I don't chip the plastic. As the blade
cuts, the friction also helps heat the plastic,
leaving a fairly clear edge. After I've cut
5" of the 2" tubing, it's time to make some
connections. With some gentle persuasion,
I've managed to fit the large acrylic tube
into the clean out adaptor, but before I push
them together, I'm going to add a liberal
amount of clear silicone caulking all around
the outer base. This will also go on the
inside being careful not to get any silicone
on the threads. Now I can use a rubber hammer
to tap the tubing all the way into place, and
clean up the excess silicone. Paper towel
works well, and in a few minutes, it's all
cleaned up. I can flip this over, and repeat
the process of attaching, caulking this part,
and this part, tapping into place, and cleaning
up the excess. While I'm in the mood for
cleaning, I'll use my adhesive remover to assist
in clearing off the UPC stickers, then I'll
give everything one final wipe down. I'm going
to seal the bottom with a 4" ABS cleanout plug
and some ABS cement. The gooey black cement is
applied to the threads of both parts, and then
I'll use this piece of scrap wood from my
"Solar Scorcher Frame" project to help screw
it in tight. The excess is removed, and I'll
let it sit here to cure. While that's drying,
I'll get to work on making the bubbler. I
want to attach this 1/4" 90 degree elbow to
the cap, so when the stickers are removed,
I'll grab my 1/2 drill bit, and a tap. The
hole is drilled in the center, then tapped at
18 thread, just before adding pipe tape
to the elbow adaptor, and screwing into place.
When that's tight, and I've repeated the exact
same process with the other cap, I'm happy to
see they fit snug onto my acrylic tubing. It
looks unfinished though, so I'm going to use
these top pieces from 2 trap adaptors to slide
onto the tubing first, and now when I add the
cap, they screw together giving this piece a
clean professional look. Ok now it's time to
work on the actual generator. Similar to the
bubbler caps, I'm drilling a 1/2" hole into the
top of the 4" cleanout plug. When that's tapped
to 18 thread, I can add pipe tape to a 3/8"
swivel elbow and screw that into place. You can
see this swivels 360 degrees, and that's mostly
for convenience. Using a 5/16" drill bit, I'll
make holes on either side of the cap, and these
will be for attaching the generator plates. I
cut this hole a little close to the edge, but
no problem. My belt sander easily rounded the
edges, and now it's a perfect fit. Next, I'll
mark the two smaller bands at about 2 3/4", and
use my bench vise and a rubber hammer to
bend them to 90 angles. The 6" piece is marked
at 1 3/4" and 4 1/4", then bent into a "U" shape.
A 5/16" course thread nylon bolt is cut into two
pieces 4" long. I'll get some nylon washers
ready, and add two stainless steel jam nuts, to
the end of each bolt. The bolts are fitted with
two of the connector straps, and one of the
smaller plates, then a plastic washer is added on
each bolt. These washers are 3/4" diameter, and
about 0.06" thick. Another 1 1/2" plate is
added, and secured with a nut on each bolt, and
now the big plates can go on. I'm stacking these
in the order of plate, washers, plate, nuts, and
repeating until I've got a total of 8 plates in
place. This is the center of the generator, and
the other connector strap is added at the top and
secured with another nut. I'll add one more nut
to the bottom to compensate for the gap, and then
get back to my routine of adding plate, washers,
plate, nuts, until I run out of big plates. The
two smaller plates are added last, and now all I
need to do is trim down the bolt ends to about
1/2" so I can snap the bottom connector into
place, add a nut, and tighten. The other bolt
also gets a finishing nut, and then is trimmed
down, and now I'll just need to turn the
generator around and move these screws so that I
can tighten the inner ones. The generator plates
are done, and looking very nice, so I'm going to
connect them up to the 4" plug. To do that, I'll
add a nut to a 5/16" x 2" stainless steel bolt
and push them through the hole in the right
connector strap. This 1/4" washer is stainless
steel on one side, and rubber on the other, and
I'll push that down the bolt with the rubber side
up. That's all repeated on the left side, and
now the cap is placed over the bolts. Two more
washers are added, this time with rubber side
down, and secured with another nut. Using an
allen wrench, the nut is tightened securely, and
then a few more nuts and metal washers are added
to the posts for convenience. This piece is
finished and I'm really happy with it, and when I
dry-fit it into the casing and screw it into
position, I'm starting to get excited. I'm going
to need a way to secure my bubbler to the side,
so using some leftovers from the 2" pipe, I'll
very carefully cut two 3/4" thick circles, then
use a wood 2x4 to hold the piece flat while I
trim off the top. What I've done is created a
clip for my bubbler and you can see it clips
easily onto the tube and holds firmly in place.
The other circle is cut, and a belt sander used
to match the pieces as closely as possible. I've
got some left over acrylic rod from my "Fire
Piston" project, and I'll cut off 2 pieces about
1 1/2" long. I'll use some acrylic glue to
secure the clips to the connector rods, and after
2 minutes they're firm, but will still take over
2 days to fully cure. While those are setting,
I'll use scissors to cut my poly tube at 20", and
another piece at 2". The 2" piece connects to a
one-way check valve, and is inserted into the
swivel elbow. This will prevent anything from
flowing back into the generator. The 20" tube
goes on the other end of the valve, and then
connects to one of the bubbler elbows. I'm ready
to attach my clips to the body, so I'll use my
bubbler body as a form for spacing the clips, and
with the generator on it's side, find where it
balances. That looks good there, so acrylic glue
is added to the clips and replaced on the body.
When it sets, I'll use a little more glue in the
gaps, and remove the bubbler to let it cure. In
the mean time, I'll ready 6 cups of distilled
water, and some flakes of potassium hydroxide. 6
Tablespoons of flakes will act as a catalyst to
smooth the reaction, so when they're stirred in,
I'll open the generator body, and attach a coffee
filter to filter the fluid into the super cleaned
casing. The filter is removed and thread tape is
added to the cap, then the generator plates are
slowly inserted into the solution, and screwed in
water tight. Now I can remove the top cap from
the bubbler, add some water, then screw it back
together. The remainder of my poly tube is
attached to the bubbler elbow, and there it is!
A sexy looking hydroxy generator! This system
produces an extremely powerful oxyhydrogen gas.
It will make about 5 liters per minute, and when
the gas is used, it simply turns back into water,
and that's good for the environment. The amount
of water already in this system is enough to
produce thousands and thousands of liters of
fuel. Some people say this is the fuel of the
future. Let me know what you think in the
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