Learn to Knit Gloves, Parts 1-9


Uploaded by verypinkknits on 19.07.2011

Transcript:
Gloves can be intimidating to knit if youíve never tried them before, because there are
a lot of unique techniques involved in them that you maybe havenít seen in other patterns.
In this tutorial weíre going to start from the very basics.
All you need to know how to do is knit and purl.
Weíre going to get you going on knitting with double pointed needles and knitting the
cuff, learning how to do make 1 increases to work the gusset, how to work backwards
loop cast on and picking up stitches to knit the tiny tubes of the fingers, and then decreasing
and finishing the glove so that you have limited gaps and the glove is a nice fit.
To knit this with us youíre going to need a set of size 3 double pointed needles, like
this and youíre going to need some worsted weight yarn.
Iíve taken the label off of this but you can kind of get the idea of the yarn that
youíre going to need.
These techniques are pretty basic across most glove patterns, but if youíd like to follow
along with these gloves, this pattern is available for purchase and download over on my website.
And first up, weíre going to learn how to get started with double pointed needles and
knit the cuff of the glove.
First up with the gloves weíre going to get started on the cuff, starting down here at
the bottom of the glove, working with two ñ uh, working with double pointed needles.
And weíre going to work in two by two rib.
The double pointed needles allow us to work in a tube, and of course gloves are just a
series of tubes.
This lets us knit a small circumference tube.
They can be kind of intimidating if you havenít used them before, but really using double
pointed needles is just like normal knitting.
Youíre only going to be knitting with two needles at a time.
Let me show you how to get started with this.
Iíve already cast on part of the stitches that I need for the gloves. And Iím using
the long tail cast on.
And if you need a review of the long tail cast on, I have a technique video that will
take you slowly through how to do this cast on.
If you do a knitted cast on that works, too.
So you can either cast on all your stitches on to one needle, how ever many stitches your
size calls for, and then just transfer them to three needles like this.
You put your needle in as if to purl, and slide them over.
Or you can actually, let me undo this, you can actually cast on to each needle and that
saves you the trouble of transferring them over.
And the way to do that is to get yourself set up to do the long tail cast on, and instead
of going on to the needle that youíve been using, you get yourself started and you put
the new needle in there.
Let me show you again.
Iím going to wrap it around my thumb and just let these two needles hang.
And put that new needle, take the working yarn and wrap it and pull it through, and
then when I pull that through, I really want to give a tug to the tail end and the working
yarn, because Iíd like to eliminate the gap between the two needles as much as possible.
Okay, then Iím going to cast on the remaining stitches that I need here on the third needle.
Again if you need some help with working this cast on itís called the long tail cast on,
and I have a technique video for it.
Okay, Iím not counting, but Iím just going to cast on what looks about right for demonstration
purposes here.
Okay, now you have stitches spread out over three needles, and to get started with this,
weíre going to break it down into as many steps as we need to get started with this,
to make it easy.
Get everything as untwisted as you can. Or ñ just get everything untwisted!
And put your needles into an H, the letter H shape, like this.
Your working yarn and your tail are over here on the right needle.
Now when you have this untwisted, that will mean that all of your knots from your cast
on are all lined up on the inside of this H.
Nothingís twisted when you see that. Okay?
Now, this here is going to be my first stitch that I knit.
And Iím going to use the working yarn from over here.
And when I use this yarn to knit this stitch itís going to close up the tube.
So that will be our first step.
Iím going to turn this around to get this first stitch in front of me like this, and
scoot it down to the tip of the needle.
Now notice, Iím not picking anything up off the table yet.
And the reason for that is that as soon as you pick things up off the table, things can
get twisted.
Weíre going to leave it on the table as long as possible to keep it from getting twisted.
So, my first stitch is very close to the tip of the needle, ready to work.
Iíve separated my working yarn from the tail end, so itís easy for me to grab it and use.
Iím going to put my needle in to the left of first stitch to knit it. Okay.
You see, Iím just working with two needles. These two needles are going to hang out, these
two right here, are going to hang out until I get to them.
These two needles right here are the ones I care about.
So my needleís in.
I take the working yarn, Iím going to work a completely normal knit stitch by wrapping
the back needle, and after I do that, I can pick this up off the table because it canít
really get twisted anymore.
Iím going to pull that stitch through, just a normal knit stitch, and go into the next
stitch and knit that as well.
Now Iím working two by two rib.
Take a look here, Iíll spread it out a little for you.
This is knit two, purl two, knit two, purl two, and thatís what gives us this stretchy
cuff.
Before I can work the purl stitch, I need to pull my working yarn forward between the
two needles, and purl two.
Donít get discouraged when youíre working the cast on row. Because itís tighter than
the other rows, it does go more slowly.
You can pick up speed once you get past it.
Iím going to go back to knitting now, so I pull the yarn, the working yarn back between
the two needles, because my yarn needs to be in back to knit, Iíll knit two.
Pull the yarn forward and purl two.
Back, to knit two.
And I want to get to the end of this row so I can show you how to move onto the next needle.
Back to knit two.
Whoops, I just dropped a stitch!
Grab that.
Okay, remember that I didnít ñ I didnít count how many I was casting on that last
needle.
I should be ending with purl two, but Iím just going to end with purl 1 because I didnít
count my stitches.
But really for demonstration purposes, thatís okay.
And Iíve had you arrange these stitches so that you will always end with purl two on
the end of each needle, and when you start the next needle you will always start with
knit two.
Itís a good way to know that youíre on track with the two by two rib pattern.
Okay, so I finished knitting this first stitch, my working yarn is coming out of this needle,
when youíre working with double pointed needles, your next stitch is always to the left of
your working yarn.
So hereís my working yarn, Iím going to jump over to this needle, and thatís my next
stitch.
So Iíll get it close to the tip of the needle so I can work it.
And again, Iím working with this empty needle in my right hand, and Iím going to this needle
to continue knitting, and so these two needles are just going to hang out there and wait
for me to get back to them.
So, Iíll knit across here, and jump over to this needle and knit across here, always
starting with an empty needle in my right hand.
Youíre going to knit the cuff for as long as the pattern tells you depending on the
size that youíre knitting, and next up weíre going to get started working with the thumb
gusset.
You should be at a point in your gloves now where you have finished knitting the two by
two rib in the cuff, which is the stretchy part of the glove ñ the very stretchy part
of the glove.
And now weíre going to start with the stockinette part. From here on out weíre going to be
knitting every round, I donít think thereís any more purling in the glove at all anymore.
And the thumb gusset is this bit of knitting right here. And the way that the hand is shaped,
itís all pretty straight through here, but we have to increase here to accommodate for
the thumb. And thatís what weíre going to do.
Let me show you a close up in the finished glove.
Itís this line and this line.
And you can see, we started off with just one stitch between these two, and we go go
go up like this until weíve increased until we have a lot of stitches between these two
markers right here.
So to get started with the thumb gusset, this is where youíre going to need a couple of
stitch markers, and Iíll how you what those look like here in a minute.
Oh, before ñ before we do that though, you see where the tail end of your yarn is here?
The reason we havenít bothered with stitch markers to mark the beginning of your round
is because wherever your tail end is, you follow that up between two needles, this is
the beginning of your round. This is the first stitch here.
So you always want to ñ just like when youíre working back and forth in rows, this is where
you want, you want to get back to the beginning of the round when you start working on a new
section of the gloves.
So for the thumb gusset here, youíre going to work up, youíre going to follow your pattern
for your size to knit up to the number of stitches it tells you to.
And Iím not counting here, but I know that I do need to knit past this first needle.
You see, no more purling. It starts to go much more quickly.
Okay.
This looks about right.
The pattern tells you to place a marker.
So I have a little ring marker here that Iím going to put on the right needle.
To make 1 left, Iím going to do that here ñ Iím going to show you a close up of this
in just a moment.
Make 1 left, knit one, make 1 right, Iíll show you, Iíll break this down for you as
well.
Place another marker, then continue knitting with the round.
Letís take a closer look at those make 1 stitches.
I have this sample here knit up on big needles so I can show you how to do this.
Make 1 left is a left leaning increase, make 1 right is a right leaning increase, and make
1s are, as far as noticability goes, they are the most invisible increase stitches.
To work one ñ you see here how this sample is like what youíre working, itís just plain
knitting around, or when youíre knitting in the round, so this is exactly how it will
look for you.
When you separate two stitches, youíll see an obvious bar between the two stitches.
If you pick that up, I always use my right needle to pick it up because Iím just more
coordinated with my right hand, Iíll pick it up and put the needle in front to back.
Or your can just take your needle and put it in front to back on that bar between two
stitches.
Then you knit that stitch, through the back loop.
A normal knit stitch would go in like this.
Through the back loop goes in like that. And you knit it.
So youíve made a stitch out of the bar between two stitches.
Iíll show you that again.
Iím going to take the tip of my left needle, and put it into the bar between two stitches
from front to back.
Then Iím going to knit that through the back loop.
Okay, thatís a left leaning increase, thatís the first one that youíll work.
A right leaning increase, the only difference is that youíre going to pick up that bar
from back to front.
And youíre going to knit it normally through the front loop, which can be tricky.
Iíll show you again.
Iím going to pick that up from back to front, so I have this loop on the needle, and then
Iím going to knit it normally through the front loop like this.
The real trick with make 1 stitches is if itís easy to get your needle in to work it,
youíre not doing it right.
If youíre knitting a make 1 left, and youíre putting through, in the normal way through
the front loop of the stitch, itís going to be really easy to put your needle in, but
itís going to create a whole in your work.
If itís difficult to get your needle it, it means youíre making the correct twist
on the stitch which is going to keep you from getting a gap in your work.
So youíll follow your pattern, and youíre going to do the make 1 increases like that
every third row.
I like to use a row counter to keep track of where I am when Iím going that part.
And once you reach the required number of stitches between the two markers for the size
youíre knitting, weíre going to put those thumb gusset stitches on reserve, which weíre
going to cover in the next video.
Now you should have finished the thumb gusset stitches, meaning that you have the correct
number of stitches between your markers that your pattern calls for, for the size that
youíre knitting.
Now weíre ready to reserve those thumb gusset stitches because what weíre going to do is
ñ you are right here right now.
Weíre going to put these stitches on a piece of scrap yarn to save them for later, and
then after we finish all the other fingers weíre going to go back and knit the thumb
itself.
So letís start that row.
The beginning of my row is here, Iíve already knit across this first needle, and Iím knitting
up to where my markers are with the thumb gusset stitches.
I have a few more stitches to go here.
There are a lot of stitches on this needle once I finished the increases!
So Iím knitting up to this marker, Iím removing the marker, we donít need that anymore.
And Iím taking some scrap yarn and a tapestry needle.
Iíll thread that on to here.
And now Iím going to slide all of these stitches between the markers on to this scrap yarn.
To do that, I put my tapestry needle in as if to purl, and just slide those stitches
on to the tapestry needle.
You can be careful and do them one by one like this if you like.
When you get to the second marker, take that one out.
And now my stitches are all safely reserved on this piece of scrap yarn.
And I always use scrap yarn in a contrasting color so itís really easy to see.
Now, you can see here that itís starting to look more like a glove.
This is actually a thumb, and this is the hand part right here.
And weíre going to continue knitting in the round with those stitches kind of sticking
out, and to do that we need to cast on one stitch on the right needle here before we
continue knitting the stitches over here.
Weíre going to use the backwards loop cast on to cast on one stitch.
So I have my working yarn here, Iím going to take it in my left hand with my thumb on
the yarn like this, flip it, and slide it on to the needle.
Iíll show you that again.
This is important because we use the backwards loop cast on a lot in this pattern.
So you put your thumb on the yarn like this, flip, put that loop on the needle and tighten
it up.
Now that I have that one stitch cast on, Iím going to ignore those thumb stitches, Iím
just going to let them stick out like that, and Iím going to continue knitting across
the left needle.
And itís amazing, ta-da! The thumb stitches are there, and theyíre in the right place,
and theyíre just waiting for me to come back to them and finish them.
See? There we go.
So youíre going to follow your pattern to knit the correct length for the length of
the hand and next up weíre going to get started on the pinkie finger.
Now weíre ready to get started on the fingers, and weíre going to start with the pinkie
finger and work our way across the hand this way.
Once youíve made it to this part, the rest of the knitting goes pretty quickly because
the, the fingers are really just little tubes to knit, it goes pretty quickly.
Um, Iíve written the pattern that weíre using here, to make it so that your stitches
are always arranged correctly for ñ or the easiest way for you to work through, and then
have things arranged so that the right number is on each needle when you start decreasing
for the tops of the fingers.
So youíll want to follow along for your pattern and whatever it says for your size, but this
specific pattern Iím going to use the numbers that we have for the medium size. The womanís
medium size.
Okay, here I am with my finished hand.
I have the right side of the work ñ uh, my working yarn is over here on the right side.
Iím going to take a double pointed needle and transfer the first six stitches on to the dpn.
And youíll see that that gives us ñ this being the thumb, this being the pinkie.
This is going to be pinkie stitches.
Then we need some scrap yarn again and a tapestry needle, because weíre going to put all the
rest of the stitches around the hand on scrap yarn, and youíre going to transfer just like
we did when we transferred thumb stitches to the scrap yarn.
Okay.
I think this is actually the numbers for the womanís large, not the womanís medium.
Iím going to slide stitches up to the last five.
Iím going to leave the last five here on this needle.
Okay, here we go!
Our working yarnís coming from here, we have six stitches here and five stitches here,
and Iím just going to start working, Iím going to start knitting.
And in this particular one, Iím going to knit four, then Iím going to pick up ñ whoops,
I only knit three there. No wonder the count didnít work!
Knit FOUR, pick up a new needle and knit the last two.
Now remember how we had this gap here at the thumb and we used the backwards loop cast
on to build one stitch there?
Weíre going to cast on ñ how many here? Just one.
So again, Iím going to flip the yarn around and put it on the needle, creating one more
stitch there.
And now Iím going to continue knitting off the third needle, just knitting one, and that
kind of seals in this backwards loop cast on that could have fallen off if I didnít
knit another one.
Now Iíll pick up an empty needle in my right hand, and knit the last four.
Okay, so now this looks a lot like what we had going on with the cuff.
We had three needles making a triangle, and weíre knitting a tube, only this tube is
a lot smaller.
Because we just have twelve stitches going on this pinkie finger.
And just like we were doing before, itís small, its going to go quickly.
Your next stitch is always to the left of your working yarn.
And youíre just going to keep going around and around.
And next up weíre going to learn how to measure the length of the finger as weíre going along,
and how to do the dec ñ excuse me! [laughs] How to do the decreases for the tops of the
fingers.
If youíre knitting these gloves for yourself, itís easy to try on the gloves as you go
and just measure the length of the fingers as youíre knitting them.
If youíre making these for someone else, and theyíre not around to try the gloves
on for you, you can either have them trace an outline of their hand for you, or you can
just go with the standard measurements for the different sizes.
Iím actually making these gloves to fit me. And something thatís nice about handknit
gloves is that I have really long fingers and a freakishly long thumb, so Iím able
to measure them to fit, to make sure that theyíre going to fit my hand.
Normally, gloves end up kind of ñ uh, between the fingers end up being here between my knuckles,
and I can never get them all the way down. Thatís store bought gloves. Not hand knit
gloves.
First let me show you how to measure the fingers.
Here I am with a finished hand, and Iíve completed ñ I think Iíve completed one pinkie
finger.
Iíve knit as long as the pattern tells me to.
Iím going to go ahead and try it on.
And this, as you can see, is a mess of ends and scrap yarn and everything else.
Okay.
So Iíve got the pinkie on.
And I hope youíre following along with all these bits of yarn flopping all over the place.
Iím going to take my ruler, and put it right down here starting at the base of the pinkie.
And Iíll measure up, and I have knit ñ oh, when I measure, I measure to just under the
needle here. Donít include the needle with the stitches in the measurement.
Just stop to here.
And it shows that Iíve knit just about two and a quarter inches.
When I look at it, it looks like itís long enough for me.
Thereís only one decrease round on the fingers. So all that really does is close it up. So
you really want to have it long enough for the finger, for the whole finger, with really
nothing sticking out, because weíre just going to close it up.
So thatís how you measure the finger. And youíre going to do that, of course, on each
finger as you go.
And now Iím going to show you how to do the decrease round on here.
For this pinkie we have twelve stitches total, and itís just knit two together around.
So, knit two together, and we have four stitches on each needle, so itís knit two together
twice on each needle.
Okay.
Then youíll cut your yarn, leaving yourself, I donít know, about six or eight inches,
like this.
And mineís already cut.
And Iíll take my tapestry needle again, thread that end on to the tapestry needle.
And then hereís my working yarn. This is what would be my next stitch.
Iím just going to start there. And thread this yarn back through all the stitches, the
six remaining stitches, pulling the needle out as I go.
Okay! And that is a finished pinkie! Because when I tighten it up, that closes up the top,
and Iíll just weave in the end on the inside.
I actually ñ itís easier to weave in the ends as you go, Iím just going to wait til
Iím finished to do it. [laughs]
And then one last check, weíll make sure that this is long enough for me.
And yes, it is.
In the next video weíre going to work on the upper hand.
This next segment in knitting the upper hand, there are a couple of things that are important
for the rest ñ a couple of techniques in doing this that are important for the other
three fingers that weíre going to be knitting.
Letís take a look at the glove.
First look at my hand. We finished the pinkie, and weíre going to do something thatís called
the upper hand of the glove.
Which takes us from here, where we are right now, up a little bit higher.
Because the base of the area between these two fingers and these two fingers is higher,
than the base between the pinkie and the ring finger.
You see what Iím saying?
So weíre way down here right now. Weíre going to knit a couple rows on this section
right here to get us up to the base of these two fingers.
Trust me. It makes for a better fitting glove.
So, Iíve already slid most of the stitches, as my pattern told me, on to these dpns, I
still have the scrap yarn in there.
And Iíll demonstrate for a couple more, because this is going to be important for the rest
of the glove, that you know how to do this.
Thereís the scrap yarn. I just slide my needle in as if to purl, with the scrap yarn there,
and go on to the next one. And the last one ñ I set this up so I can show you the last
one.
The last one can be tricky.
Iím going to pull out this scrap yarn in everything except for this last stitch.
And the reason itís tricky is because sometimes the stitch ends up getting buried.
I donít see where my stitch is right now.
Itís buried in there.
But Iíve taken out the scrap yarn in everything but this last stitch, and if I pull it, the
stitch magically comes out and I can put it up on the needle.
You see that?
This also happens to be attached to the working yarn, itís easy to pull because it will stretch
out.
So I take out my scrap yarn, all the stitches are on the needles, and Iíve already worked
around up to this point.
Now the pattern tells me that I need to pick up stitches at the base of the pinkie.
Otherwise, because if I didnít there would just end up being this massive hole right
here at the base of the pinkie.
So Iím going to pick up and knit. This is the technique. Itís called picking up and
knitting.
Two stitches here at the base of the pinkie.
And you want to space them out kind of evenly. You can, well, yeah. I usually want to space
them out pretty evenly.
But the most important thing is I want to pick up two legs of something. I want to pick
up strands of yarn.
And what we have here are Vs, because this was a cast on, a stitch that we cast on.
Well, let me just show you how I handle this.
Iím going to put my needle into two legs, right here, so I have two legs there.
And Iím going wrap it, this is like knitting with one needle.
Iím going to wrap it and pull it through.
And then I do a little test.
I pull on it to see if it creates a huge hole. And that kind of did.
I donít like the way that looks.
So Iím going find a different spot to wrap and pull through.
Iím happier with that. Then do it one more time over here.
Put my needle into two legs of a stitch, wrap it and pull it through like a normal knit
stitch.
Pull on it, that looks aright, Iím happy with the way that looks.
And now I can just continue working in the round. After I do one thing.
I reattached my yarn, I worked all the way around, and now I just picked up two stitches.
Hereís my working yarn, and here is the tail end.
I always tie these two together when Iíve attached new yarn.
And I do this on each one of the remaining fingers when I do.
Thatís going to keep the glove from stretching out right there, falling apart right there,
whatever.
And that knotís not going to get in the way.
So Iím just going to continue working around on these stitches.
Hereís my working yarn hereís my next stitch.
I think you have two more rounds to knit. And next up ñ well, the rest of the fingers
are really the same as what weíve worked on so far.
Youíre going to use the techniques of backwards loop cast on and picking up stitches, picking
up and knitting the way that Iíve done here.
So the middle finger and the first finger are no different than what youíve already
done.
So next up, weíre going to do the thumb.
Youíre going to see here that working the thumb really isnít much different than what
youíve done on the other fingers, but weíre going to go over it together to make sure
youíre comfortable with doing it.
Now, letís pretend here that all my fingers are finished. My sample here doesnít have
finished fingers, but it does have the thumb just the way we left it on the scrap yarn.
So Iím going to take my double pointed needles, and with the right side of the work facing
me, the thumb over here on the left, Iím going to slide my double pointed needles into
the stitches.
And in the pattern I tell you how many to put on each needle, to make it so it works
out well at the end.
Iím not really counting right now, just giving
you the idea.
Okay, Iím having this problem again with the very last stitch being hard to see.
So Iíll pull out my scrap yarn, in everything but this last stitch, and then when I pull
thereís the last stitch.
I can grab it and pull this scrap yarn out.
Okay, all the stitches are now on double pointed needles and weíre ready to knit the thumb.
Iím going to reattach the yarn, and to do that ñ well, hereís another thing that I
hadnít mentioned.
You can use one of these clippie markers or a safety pin.
These clippie markers are nice.
Iím going to clip it in right here so that I can remember that right here is the beginning
of my round.
No mistake.
Iíll put my needle in and take my working yarn, and leaving myself about a six inch
tail, Iím going to loop that over that back needle and pull it through.
And just like on the other fingers, I have a few more stitches here because itís the
thumb, but just like the other fingers I will knit around.
And then when I get to the end of the last needle, when I make it back to the beginning
of my round, the pattern tells me that I need to pick up and knit one stitch here where
I cast on one when we were working the thumb the first time.
And you should be pretty comfortable with that, because youíve done it on the other
fingers.
Iím trying to get the extra bits of yarn out of the way.
Iím going to grab two legs, wrap it and pull it through.
It can be tough. You have to get a lot of tension on the working yarn to get it through.
I pull on it, I think it looks good.
And then just like I did before, Iím going to tie the working yarn to the tail so I donít
have to worry about it falling apart right there.
So youíre going to continue knitting the thumb the way you did the other fingers, youíre
going to measure the thumb the same way you did with the other fingers.
And the only thing thatís different in decreasing for the top is that you have two decrease
rounds.
You knit two together for one round, and then you knit two together again for another round,
so we get down to fewer stitches before we thread it on to the scrap yarn and tighten
it up.
Next up weíre going to talk about weaving in the ends and finishing the gloves.
If youíre like me and you waited until the very end to weave in your ends, this is what
you have, this scary mess here.
But I want to show you how to weave in the ends to close up any gaps that you might have
between the fingers.
With gloves we are always reattaching yarn and starting a new little tube for the different
fingers, and there are areas where you can get gaps in your work.
And it also just happens that where the ends are, where you attached new yarn, is exactly
where you need something to be to maybe close that up with the tapestry needle.
So letís take a look.
Here are my finished glove. Here IS my finished glove.
And Iíve switched colors on you here.
And Iíve already scoped out that I have this hole.
It will be easier to see if I put it on.
I have this hole here that Iím not happy with between these two fingers. You can see
me poking my fingernail through there.
I want to use this end to close this up.
And to do that Iím going to take my tapestry needle, thread it on there, and then I actually
like to put the glove on when I do it.
I think this is the easiest way to do it.
So to close this up, my working yarnís coming from here, Iím just going to grab anything
on the other side of this hole.
And really ta-da! That closed it up. Thatís all it took! [laughs]
Usually just one little stitch is enough for it to fill that gap and close it up.
And then the next thing Iím going to do is to just find a spot to poke the tapestry needle
inside the glove, because I want to weave in the end on the inside of the glove, and
then start to pull my hand out and find the needle.
Pull, pull, pull, and then flip the glove inside out at that point right there.
Okay.
Now Iím ready to weave in this end.
And this glove that Iím working on right here happens to be 100 percent wool.
So I can just weave in the end here by going in and out of a few stitches.
And because wool, 100 percent wool here, is really sticky, it sticks to itself really
well, so thatís not going to go anywhere. Thatís not going to come unraveled.
Because wool is sticky, it will hold it in place.
But on these blue gloves that I knit, this is a wool blend. And there is more of a chance
of it coming undone, especially because this is a machine washable yarn, and I want it
to be able to be machine washable, especially if Iím giving it as a gift.
And to do that Iím going to secure the end a little more.
Using this same example, this is what I would do for a non 100 percent wool glove when I
want to weave in the ends.
The first thing Iím going to do is separate the plies in half. This is a four ply yarn,
so I have two plies here and two plies here.
Iím going to take two of those plies and thread them on the needle, and take those
two plies just half a stitch away.
So theyíre not coming out of the same place anymore.
Then tie a double knot like this and really tighten it up.
And then you can cut it short.
And that end wonít go anywhere.
That end will be safe for wearing and for washing and for whatever else.
So when you take a look at your glove again, when I look at this, I have my ends here.
And yeah, I can benefit ñ these gaps between the fingers can benefit from me weaving that
in a little bit to close that up.
And then of course I have the ends to weave in at the tips of the fingers. No problem
once you get started.
And thatís how youíre going to weave in the ends.
The last thing you want to do is to block the gloves, and blocking is a way of smoothing
out all your stitches and making them look really beautiful which is important for anything,
but even more important if youíre giving these gloves away as a gift.
And then the very last thing you want to do of course is to make another one. Good luck.
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