How To Fit A Tumble Dryer Motor ( PART 1 ) On A Hotpoint, Creda, Indesit, Ariston Machine


Uploaded by Apart4u on 03.08.2010

Transcript:
bjbj Hi welcome to apart4u video tutorials this video tutorial will be shown to you by
Dave; he will take you through a step by step procedure in repairing this appliance This
tutorial is on how to determine why the drum on your Hotpoint TDL30 tumble dryer is not
going round, but it will also cover some other models in the Hotpoint, Creda, Indesit and
Ariston range of tumble dryers as well You may want to use a small container or two to
hold the screws when you remove them because not all the screws are the same size so make
a note where the larger ones fit, or you could be left with small screws going into holes
made by the bigger ones Switch the machine off from the power supply and remove the plug
Now remove all the screws holding the top on there s normally about two but you could
have a few more It depends on your make and model just how the top comes off you may need to just push
it back or you could have to lift it first to remove it. If the belt is still in position
and tight, try turning the drum by hand if you can then the motor has not seized up and
you can now move onto the next stage Connect your meter to one of the plug pins and put
the other end onto the appropriate connection in the terminal block on the dryer if you
get a reading then you have continuity so that wire s OK now try the other terminal
and plug pin, if that s the same it means the fuse is fine and you have power from the
plug to the machine Make sure the machine door s shut then connect one probe from your
meter to the brown wire in the terminal block and the other onto the appropriate wire on
the timer (in this case orange and white) but you d need to follow the wire up from
the door switch to the timer on your machine to know which terminal it fits on and the
correct colour ve already removed the side panel here so you can see the wires on the
bottom of the door switch and the timer connections If you get a reading then you have continuity
through the door switch to the timer so that s OK Now test the blue wire from the terminal
block to the timer, it s not always the live wire that s at fault sometimes you get a break
in the neutral as well To check the motor you ll need to remove one of the side panels
on this machine the right hand side panel gives best access to the wiring The front
fixings are hidden behind the consol panel and kick strip so first remove the consol
panel, which is held on by these two screws but be careful because there right close to
the point of other screws and there difficult to hold, so a magnetic screwdriver would be
really useful. A little tip if you use an old tea towel or piece of cloth and drape
it over the timer knob then grip it with a pair of pliers you can pull the knob off without
damaging it Now slide the panel to the right and unhook it from the cabinet If your machine
has options switches remove the wires, this has only one switch so I needn t worry about
labelling them but if you have more than one switch pair them up and label which switch
they fit on for reassembling Remove the screws holding the top of the panel on, there is
one on top and two in front on this machine Here you can see the different size of the
screws, the small one fits on the top of the panel and the larger one fits on the front
The kick strip will just pull off then you can remove the screw on the outer edge Tilt
the machine over then you can undo the screws along the bottom edge The only thing holding
the panel on now is about half a dozen screws along the back edge, so remove those and the
panel should come off If you ve not done so already make sure you undo the wire holding
the cables on the panel Use an insulated handled screwdriver and short out the terminals on the capacitor before
touching it, or you may get an electric shock, because they can hold a charge for a short
time after being disconnected from the power supply. Now disconnect the wires from the
capacitor...it may have 4 terminals or just 2 as this one has the 4 wires here are joined
by link spade connectors now without getting too involved with the principles of the induction
motor, I ll just say there are 2 sets of windings in these motors, the start windings and the
run windings. The capacitor gives a sharp boost to the start windings just to get the
motor turning then the run windings take over and the motor carries on running .if either
of these windings become faulty then the motor wont start or wont run the single wire not
connected to the capacitor is a neutral and you should get a reading on your meter if
connected to this and either of the other two motor wires if not you have a faulty motor
As you can see the motor on this machine is fine but this video is on how to locate a
fault and change a motor so for the sake of argument let s say the motor is faulty and
we ll continue from there Remove the cable tie and separate the wires you should have
a link terminal connected to one of the motor wires and another connected to a timer wire
this way you just have to remember which single terminal wire goes with which link terminal
if you have a camera take a photo or at least make a note. The neutral wire is blue from
the timer and on this machine white from the motor but the connectors are encased so you
can t confuse them The belt will come off easily enough if you just ease it away from
the motor while turning the drum The next step is to remove the bearing cover and then
undo all the screws on the heater cover if you re doing it by hand it s a very tedious
job, but remember to continue segregating the screws, although the ones on this cover
are all the same size All the parts used in this and other videos are available from our
web site at apart4u.co.uk, just enter your model number in the search bar on the site
and you ll get a list of parts for that machine. With the cover off you now have access to
the motor fan Use an 8mm socket or spanner and remove the three self tapping screws holding
the fan blade onto the motor shaft Tilt the cabinet to one side and remove the three fixing
screws holding the motor mounting to the machine base remember to hold the motor from inside
when you remove the last screw You can now remove the motor s still attached to the mounting
frame by one screw at the fan end and two at the pulley end remember this for refitting
or take a photo because the motor can be fitted back to front The torques screws on this machine
are size 25 but may differ on other machines and don t rely on the screw holds for alignment
when it comes to refitting because they may not be threaded in which case you ll have
to cut the thread yourself This was the first of a two part video the second part is on
replacing the motor and reassembling the machine When it comes to repairing this or any other
machine remember you re not in a race so take your time and look at what you re doing, especially
regarding wiring and relevant colours or connections, don t just pull all the wires off in one go
make sure you know where they fit, if possible tale a photo or make a diagram, because 5
minutes spent at the start of a job can save hours later on We hope this video was useful
to you, and remember to shop online at apart4u.co.uk because this is how we re able to finance
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accent2="accent2" accent3="accent3" accent4="accent4" accent5="accent5" accent6="accent6" hlink="hlink"
folHlink="folHlink"/> This tutorial is on how to determine why the drum on your Hotpoint
TDL30 tumble dryer is not going round, but it will also cover some other models in the
Hotpoint, Creda, Indesit and Ariston range of tumble dryers as well Dave Normal Dave
Microsoft Office Word selfix This tutorial is on how to determine why the drum on your
Hotpoint TDL30 tumble dryer is not going round, but it will also cover some other models in
the Hotpoint, Creda, Indesit and Ariston range of tumble dryers as well Title Microsoft Office
Word 97-2003 Document MSWordDoc Word.Document.8