CAD-CUT® H2O Technical Tips and Tricks


Uploaded by CADCUTDirect on 23.08.2010

Transcript:
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Hi I'm Josh Ellsworth general Manager of Stahls' CADCUT direct.
Thanks for watching our technical video on Project CAD-CUT H2O.
Hopefully you want to try this process out.
We've completed hundreds of applications and we're going to share with you insider information
on what works and what doesn't, so keep watching.
So to start with the CAD-CUT H2O process, it all starts with a vinyl cutter and our
CAD-CUT SuperFilm material.
Let's teach you how to dial in the settings on the vinyl cutter.
Our SuperFilm is a very very thin product.
So it's going to be a little different then your standard films that you cut.
It's about 60 microns thick.
So you need to retract the blade slightly so it's just barely sticking out, and you
want to use a 45 degree blade or something with a low degree angle.
So maybe a 37 degree for your cutter.
Another adjustment that you may need to make is downforce.
Reduce the downforce on your vinyl cutter until you get an accurate cut.
Once you confirm cutting accuracy, send you job.
We'll cut a few colors for the next part of our demonstration.
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Now we'll complete the weeding.
A tip here is make sure you don't pull up any unwanted areas of the design because it
can impact the finished result.
So pull away the excess and try to keep the material from lifting on the edge.
For this reason, sometimes doing very small detail can be tough unless your cutter is
extremely accurate and you have a very sharp blade.
Let me show you an example.
Let's lift up this corner of this two...this H...and pretend that happened in the weeding
process.
You'll see how that impacts the finished result.
Before I position these down, let’s look from the other side of the carrier.
You can see the design that's lighter on the carrier in these areas that I've ruined, were
its peeled up, you can easily see that it's more of a frosted look.
Where as the top sample looks very clean.
You can cover it with a cover sheet of you like.
The sample created the correct way.
No polyurethane lifted from the carried it's very easy to see this is accurate.
Let's look at the ruined sample.
You can see the areas were the urethane has released from the carrier and stayed behind
in unwanted areas on the shirt.
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Let's quickly weed these other cut samples so we can talk more about heat application.
Now if you have accurate cutting and accurate weeders, you can get detailed on fonts and
you can get detailed on designs...you just need to be very careful not to
lift any areas before pressing.
The settings for this process are 400 degrees 20 seconds.
The pressure alters depending upon the finished look you want to achieve.
The first finish that you can achieve we call "Original Wash".
"Original Wash" takes a 6 or 7 pressure on the Hotronix heat presses or 50 to 60 psi.
If you don't have a pressure readout just use a medium to firm pressure.
The next result I’d like to show you is our "Extreme Wash".
Now the only tithing that changes with this particular application is the actual applied
pressure.
So we're going to reduce the pressure
to about a 1 on this press or 10 to 20 psi on an air press.
Very light pressure, pretty much the weight of the platen.
Still same temperature and same time.
See the difference?
The lighter the pressure the less the color saturation.
While we're on the topic of pressure, let's show you some other things that can impact
pressure and the color saturation of your print.
If you lay the shirt on the heat press and you have the collar on the actual pressing
area or seams or other parts of the garment...buttons, zippers things like that
that is going to absorb pressure.
So let me turn the pressure back up to a pressure of 7.
You can see that it's reading a 7 pressure, but if I place my print on this area of the
shirt or even if I have a large design the areas closest to the collar
aren't going to be receiving a full 7 pressure because the collar is actually absorbing the
pressure.
So let's take a peak at what that can do to the finished print.
You'll see closest to the collar it's going to be lighter color saturation.
Do you see how the print dropped off close to the collar?
That's because that area of the design didn't receive adequate pressure.
The next thing I'd like to tell you is that if you go to do another design onto he same
garment and you have a previous design exposed up to the heat, it always
needs to be covered.
If it's not covered, the ink is going to transfer to the heater and potentially over to your
next shirt.
Let's take a look at how that works by doing it the wrong way.
That print looks beautiful, but let's look at what happened to the heater.
All of the residue left...that would transfer over to my next shirt.
So the lesson is if you're going to be locking the heater directly over top of a previously
pressed design, always use a cover sheet whether kraft paper or Teflon.
Also inspect your cover sheet in between pressings to make sure you're not transferring over
ink.
Another thing to take note of is the color result that you achieve.
Notice this is our copper color.
This is the base film in the way it finishes with the standard process.
Now with the H2O process, you're actually getting the color from the back of the material,
so this is the finished result.
The next example shows how Neon Yellow shows up on the shirt versus how the film looks.
Once again, it's taking on the back of the material...that's the color.
There are some drastic examples, such as the pink material.
The backing is white, the film is pink...the backing is white.
So what color do you think it will turn out on the shirt?
If you guessed white, you were correct.
Remember, the backing of the material impacts the color on the garment.
Something that also impacts the color of your design is the actual color of the garment.
Let's walk through some examples so you can see exactly how this changes.
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So how does it last?
CAD-CUT H2O has been put through laundering tests with great results.
You need to wash it on cold cold and do not dry on high heat.
After the first wash cycle, the finished print will actually soften just like water based
screen printing.
Please do not iron directly over the design.
So let's summarize CAD-CUT H2O.
CAD-CUT H2O consists of two finishes; "Original Wash" and "Extreme Wash".
Both finishes take the same temperature and the same time.
The results vary depending upon the applied pressure.
For the "Original Wash" medium to firm pressure; "Extreme Wash" light pressure.
When weeding for CAD-CUT H2O be sure not to pick up any unwanted areas, parts of your
design, doing so can impact the finished results.
When heat applying also take consideration for seams, collars, zippers, buttons...these
can impact pressure and affect the result.
Always use a cover sheet if CAD-CUT H2O is going to be exposed directly to the heater.
The CAD-CUT H2O finished result is determined by the back color of the film.
Also the color of the garment impacts the finish.
This is it...this is what we've discovered so far with Project CAD-CUT H2O.
It's allowed us to release the product in Beta mode.
So we're asking you to join us and help us develop and innovate with the product.
We're sure we're just scratching the surface of all of the capabilities of this unique
application.
For more details visit our web site.