Mitered Squares

Uploaded by verypinkknits on 07.03.2012

In this tutorial, we’re going to learn to knit mitered squares.
And there are several different ways of working these.
The basic idea is that the cast-on becomes two outside edges of square. And then you
knit and decrease until you get down to one stitch, making a perfect square.
And it makes for really interesting directional knitting.
When you combine that with either a variegated yarn or two colors of yarn for stripes or
color blocks, you can really see interesting direction in the knitting.
And it’s really limitless what you can do with these, you can do one solid block for
something like a dishcloth, or you can start piecing these together for an even more interesting
design, for something much bigger.
If you want to follow along with a written pattern for this, you can follow the link
in the video description just below the video to my website for a free PDF download of these
Let’s take a look.
Here I have a couple of squares. And you can see if you seam these together you’re going
to get something much different that just a single square, because of the direction
of the knitting.
And this here is just a dishcloth.
And I didn’t do stripes in this! The yarn actually did this on its own.
But I ran out of yarn, so there’s a little blue corner down here.
I’m going to use big bulky needles and thick yarn for this to demonstrate.
You want to first cast-on an even number of stitches, using the long-tail cast-on.
And the reason we use that is because the long-tail cast-on gives us a cast-on, plus
a row of knitting.
And that’s important if we want the stripes to stay even from the edge, inward.
So I’ve cast-on an even number of stitches here, I’m going to knit back across.
This is garter stitch, so these are going to lay really nice and flat.
This is tough in this cast-on row.
And it’s all knitting, no purling.
And if you need help with the long-tail cast-on, I’ll give you a link right here.
Okay, half way through the stitches, I’m going to place a marker.
And that will be important – whoops! That will be important on the next row.
I’m glad that row’s over, that was tight!
Now we’re on a right side row. And I’m going to take a clippie marker and mark this
row, because it is hard to tell sometimes which is which.
I’m also going to change color here.
To do that, I’m going to take this red yarn, and fold it over leaving about a six inch
Put my needle in the first stitch, and then just wrap that loop around the back needle.
Pull that through, and here’s how I like to work attaching a new color of yarn.
Knit across a few stitches, just enough to hold the needle in so it doesn’t slip out.
And then tie a knot with the old color and the tail of the working yarn.
And then you can go back and weave those ends in later.
But at least they’re secure for now, and nothing will stretch out.
Now I’m going to knit up to two stitches before the marker, and here’s where the
decreasing starts.
I’m going to knit two together and – this is a normal knit stitch. I’m going to put
my needle through TWO stitches to work a decrease, and then slip the marker.
Now the knit two together is a right-leaning decrease, and we slipped the marker.
On the other side of the marker we want to do a left-leaning decrease, which is an SSK,
or a slip-slip-knit.
You slip a stitch as if to knit, slip a second one as if to knit, take the tip of your left
needle and put it into the front of those two stitches, wrap it and pull it through,
and you’ve decreased by one.
And if you need a slower review of the SSK, I’ll give you a link right here.
And then you just knit to the end.
So that was a right side decrease row.
On the wrong side of the work, we are just going to knit across.
This becomes pretty awesome tv knitting, because it doesn’t require a whole lot of attention.
The last thing I want to show you on this piece – you can already see that we’re
getting some uh, a corner right here.
This is going to be, the cast-on is going to be this corner right here.
There’s the cast on row.
Now I’m going to work stripes – two row stripes here. So I’m going to keep both
working yarns attached while I do this.
And the point I want to make here is, switching from one color to the other.
I’m going to go back to this tan colored yarn, and when I do that, I want to pay special
attention to the tension on this first stitch.
I don’t want it to be too loose, so that I have a big loop on the outside, but if I
pull it too tightly, I could end up with a bunched edge here, and we want these to block
out to be really perfect squares.
So that’s how I’m going to do it. I’m just going to pay close attention to that
first stitch and maybe give it a tug to make sure it’s not too tight as I work across.
And this is a right side row, so I will knit to two stitches from the marker, knit two
together, slip the marker, and then SSK, and then knit to the end.
And that’s the two row repeat.
And again, this is all available in the free written pattern.
The last thing I want to show you is how to finish.
You’ll continue decreasing until you get down to just two stitches.
And the very last line of the pattern tells us to knit those two together.
And so a right side row becomes the last stitch.
Whoops – I’ve already broken the yarn here, so I don’t have much to work with.
Okay, normally when I finish off something like this, I’ll pull the loop big, and then
put that end through the last loop.
I think that’s the normal way most people do it, and then tighten it up.
But I found that it leaves really, kind of too-sharp of a corner, it doesn’t match
up with the other corners.
So instead of putting this last strand through the last loop, I’m just going to pull this
last loop long, and fasten it off that way.
And that gives us a corner that matches the other corners really nicely, without an extra
little bump at the edge.
And that’s it! Good luck.