Origami Instructions: Waves (Meenakshi Mukerji)


Uploaded by AdamsSara on 26.09.2010

Transcript:
In this video I'm going to show you how to fold
the Waves model designed by Meenaski Mukerji.
The "Waves" module is a very simple module
with this kind of wave shape in it.
And I'll show you how to assemble an icosahedron.
That's basically twenty faces
that are equilateral triangles.
And you have 12 such points, vertices,
and the vertices are each connected by an edge.
and there'll be 30 edges.
So we'll need 30 sheets.
Now each sheet needs to have
an aspect ratio of 1 by 3.
So if you take one square
and cut into three strips
that each have a width of 1/3
then we'll get the paper we need.
So if you start with 10 squares
and then cut as I'm going to show you in a second
then you'll be fine.
Now this shape can be colored
with three different colors so that
same colored modules will never be next to each other.
But in this video I'm going to show
this for five colors.
I'm going to explain the pattern for five colors.
You can of course use
all different colors as I did in this one.
Or you can use five colors as I did in this one.
You'll see that with this coloring
in each of these vertices
you'll see all five colors.
I think that's quite pleasing.
You can also do this with just one color.
Now in this model I used tant,
which is the recommendation that
Meenakshi gave me for this model.
And it worked really nicely.
Especially because tant is available
is so many colors it's really nice to
make this strong mix of colors.
After that - so this was my first attempt - after that
I thought "This might be a really nice Christmas decoration."
So I used foil.
This a bit harder to work with
but it's nice and shimmery
and I like that effect, too.
And it didn't work too badly.
I'm going to be using kami in this video.
So the paper is white on one side, colored on the other.
It's probably a bit harder to work with.
So if you want to use copy paper
or tant or something like that,
then that's probably easier for you.
I'm going to use kami just because
then I'll have a white and a colored side,
so it should be a bit clearer for you.
Now this model is diagrammed
in Meenakshi Mukerji's newest book "Origami Inspirations".
It came out, I think, in August 2010.
But I only got my copy 2 days ago.
So I'm quite excited!
There's a lot of models in here,
very clear diagrams,
a lot of variations for the models, too.
I think it's about 34 models, plus extra variations.
So that actually adds up to a lot more.
There's a section with guest contributions,
which is really interesting.
So models like this and that.
If you know Meenakshi's work you'll say
"Oh, that doesn't look quite like her work!"
Well, that's true, because it's a different designer.
So this is the instructions page for
the "Waves" model, which I'm going to
be explaining to you in this video.
There's a cool section in the beginning
- I just wanted to mention that -
which explains the different polyhedra
and colorings for those.
Both the 3-coloring and the 5-coloring are in there.
I'll be explaining the 5-coloring.
But, of course, you can always do
various polyhedra with modules.
So we're going to be going for the
icosahedran.
I'm going to be using
clips - what are they called -
binder clips -
to make it easier to assemble the model.
I'll a link to where you can buy this kind of stuff.
You can get it in any stationary, but people will probably appreciate
a direct link to - Amazon I'll add.
As I said, I'm going to start with 10 sheets
I'm going to be using 5 colors,
so two sheets per color.
And we're first going to cut these into thirds.
I'm going to be using a messy method
to get that third. Let's get those clips out of the way.
Because I don't think it's quite that important
to get it 100% precise.
Often, with thirds, I'm quite lazy.
You can watch one of my videos
on how to get a third
in an exact fashion, or you can measure.
For example, if you've got a 15cm square,
then you can measure at 5cm and 10cm.
By the way, I wanted to mention
that this model I folded with 15cm squares - or 6in.
The strips are then
5cm by 15,
or 2in by 6in.
Then the resulting model has a diameter
- I'd say maybe that's this distance -
the diameter is then
10cm or 4in.
So the diameter is about double of the strip's width.
This smaller model I folded with
- here come some strange numbers -
3.9cm by 11.7cm.
That's about 1.5in by 4.5in.
Then the diameter is about
8cm or about 3in.
So, now, let's get started now.
As I said, I'm going to be doing a messy 1/3,
but you can view one of my videos to get them exact,
or measure with a ruler.
So what I'm going to do is
bend the paper in an S-shape.
Now the idea is that you try to get
1/3, and check whether it's a third
by aligning the second area.
So here I can see this distance
is too long, so I'm going to shift this over by a bit,
make a small pinch,
and then try again. Still too long.
Try again, still too long,
and now - for reference, I guess -
now it's too short. Can you see that?
There's this white area turning up.
So I'm going to shift the paper a tiny bit back.
I'm making this look quite complicated, aren't I?
Anyway, now you've got a nice third.
Then fold along that third.
That's the first one, and then
fold in the other edge to meet that one.
I like to make this perpendicular, and then
just push it, so that you've got a perfect alignment.
Then do the same thing with the other side.
This is basically making the first step
of the modules easier. You need thirds there,
and like this you
add those creases to 3 modules at the same time.
Then you've got 9 squares.
We'll use a cutting mat.
I folded all valleys (on the color side).
If you did valleys only in one direction
I'd suggest you cut
where you don't have both valleys -
that's the direction that's preferable for the first crease.
Then I take a ruler
and I push it to the crease line -
make the paper perpendicular again
and push the ruler against it -
then you'll have perfect alignment.
Then, in one stroke, cut.
You can of course cut differently.
When I travel I sometimes just do this:
Make a strong crease in one direction,
and the other direction, too.
Then slighlty dampen your fingertip
and stroke against that edge.
Then - I know this is really outrageous -
rip the paper.
By slighly dampening the paper just in that spot
it rips much more easily right there.
So you'll get a relatively nice edge.
Then you've got your three strips.
Now let's go ahead and fold one module.
If you're using
kami - so the paper is white on one side -
then start with the color side up.
We already have valley folds here.
If not, make them into valley folds now.
Then fold in one third,
then fold back the edge,
you're creating 1/6.
Then flip over, and again align
with that edge at 1/3, that crease line.
And then the last one.
You've got a closed edge here,
and an open edge right there.
Let's have the open edge
in the bottom and then
first just take one layer
and crease it up, so that
this edge aligns with the top edge.
Now if you're using kami
you'll see some white here.
If you worked on the closed edge, it'd still be colored.
Then open up one layer.
Then take all the remaining layers
and fold them up to that crease line.
And close it again.
Then flip this over
and we basically want to do the same thing again.
But this time, the edge is locked.
So what we'll do is precrease all these layers,
and then open this pocket here
and just stuff all those layers inside,
and then make sure the module closes nicely.
You'll see that when we open this up a bit
there's a lot of layers of paper right here,
and very few here - only two layers.
And here again, lots of layers,
and very few layers.
So if you place the module between your thumb and index finger
and you push them together
and you release this middle layer a bit,
it will naturally form a wave.
That's because in the top the paper wants to go where there's
only little paper, and in the bottom it's the same.
You can also use your fingers to strengthen that curve.
And then your first module is all done.
Now you only need to fold 29 more.
Once you're done with all the modules
we're going to start assemblying.
First, let's take two differently colored modules.
We're first going to create a 5-point.
- one of these vertices.
You can see that
- let's take this bone folder -
here there's a pocket -
right there.
There's a pocket there and
this is the flap.
You'll just want to connect these two like that.
Try to really make those points meet in the top.
Right here.
Down there they will shift apart,
especially when we add more modules.
But don't worry about that.
I said each vertex was going to have
all five colors, so we're going to take
one module of each color for the first 5-point.
And each time -
you'll see this one I'm inserting into the yellow one
and this one will go into the green one.
So Meenakshi to not necessarily use kami,
because then the modules may fall apart quite easily.
So we'll see how that works out in this video.
Now you've got that final flap.
And you're going to insert it into the last module you added.
And it may already try to fall apart here.
Just try it carefully. Or,
if you've got clips,
for example these binder clips are really helpful,
you can start connecting these modules.
What I'll do is
you can see that you've got
three layers for each module.
And I'll just connect these two
to ensure that they stay connected.
That's one, and I'll use two clips for each vertex.
This might be a bit early to add clips
but it shouldn't hurt.
Now to the coloring rule.
You've got five modules,
and I want to add a module
right here to connect these two.
You've got brown and pink here,
and then two extra modules,
and this is the one that's
centrally opposite to that
edge I'll be adding.
And that's yellow, so we'll add yellow here.
So for this one, I'd use green.
For this it'd be brown.
For this one it'd be pink.
I hope you get the point.
So let's add a green one here.
Is that what I started off with?
No, I think I wanted to add a yellow one.
And again, it's the same mechanism for joining.
There you go. Now, let's add the next one.
We'll form a ring around that first vertex.
We're forming the first five
equilateral triangles of those
20 that we'll have in the end.
And every time you add a module check for the color.
Later on you'll maybe have to check more carefully.
But for those first ones
it's really easy to see it
once you understand the concept.
With colorings you can always follow patterns.
But I think it's much easier if you understand
how the pattern is created.
And then follow along with that.
Else I'd go cuckoo, I think.
If you know me, you'll know that
I'm not the best at modular origami.
So if I can do this, I'm sure you can.
I think it's really fascinating, but
I'm often a bit clumsy with assemblying.
So, now we formed the first ring.
And now we need to add
more modules to finish that ring.
How does this work?
Do I need to add a green or blue here?
Or in which pattern?
If I add a blue one here,
and a green one here,
then you'll see that
here is a blue module,
and it will be again
right opposite of that edge.
If I do it the other way around,
now you'll see that
this green one will be opposite of that
blue edge. We don't want that.
So the order is going to be: first blue,
to get that in the right spot,
and then green.
And when you add that last one again
you have to be a bit careful.
And then the next 5-point,
the next vertex, is done.
So let's stabilize that
by adding some clips.
They're really cheap.
You pay a couple of dollars for lots of them.
Once you've got that 5-point
you can again check - does this work with the green, too?
Here you've got the green opposite of
that green one. Yes, that's correct.
And you can for example add a pink one here.
And then you can see this 5-point
needs a yellow one.
And again, yes, it's opposite
of that yellow module.
Push that in, and them I'm going to just again
add clips
to ensure that this doesn't fall apart.
If you're using clips
you might as well use as many
as you think helps -
rather than saying
"Oh, I may only use five clips." and try to work with that.
I don't see much sense in that.
It does make life much easier.
I'm sure I'll get the question
whether you can use glue to connect these.
And the answer is: Yes, of course you can.
If you want to use glue, a spot of glue
to stabilize it, go ahead.
I'm going to show this without,
to show you that it's possible.
But it's your choice,
I'm not going to give you rules that you need to follow.
Do whatever you feel comfortable with.
I don't like using glue that much.
Then you can move on to the next one.
I hope you got the point by now.
So I'll probably speed up this process now.
Else we'll be sitting here ages!
Now the more modules you add
you'll find it will be a bit harder
because there's less space in some ways.
This is a good sign, because
if you don't have that tension in the end,
then the paper would just as easily
fall apart once you removed the clips.
So if you have to push for some space
that's actually a good sign.
Because then all of the modules are going to
push against each other, searching for space.
This means they can't just fall out.
So don't be worried if
space gets a bit tight
and you might have to fiddle around a bit more
as you go along assemblying stuff.
This is true for basically any modilar, I think.
Unless it requires glue, I guess.
So let's see, this is pink.
If I add it like that it'll be wrong,
so I'll add it like this.
So let's first take green.
You'll also see that
in the end - hopefully -
all the colors will be gone,
and you always had
enough of each color there.
If not, some point must have
gotten the wrong color, some edge.
And if there's one wrong color, probably...
you add others incorrectly, too.
Because when you reference that one incorrect color,
it's going to have its effects.
So always make sure to add
the tabs to the correct pockets.
This is a tight spot here.
Just as in the beginning, it's always
the same, even if it's getting a bit tight to add them.
After a while you'll see
that you actually have modules
that just need to be connected.
For example, here.
These two belong together.
As you go along you may have
some flaps and pockets
that aren't connected yet,
but can already be connected.
I usually try to add everything
so that I finish off all the tabs right away.
But sometimes it may be easy to miss them.
Just go ahead and add all of those.
And another green one.
I find these ones are the hardest, the fifth
of a vertex
when you're almost finished.
That's a really tight spot.
And you can see I'm opening this up a bit,
trying not to disconnect the modules.
And then trying to get that in there.
In the top there's usually
a small gap
where I can add that corner
and once it's in,
I can push the model in all the way.
So that might help you.
Try to go for the top area to add
to get that corner inside that pocket.
I find that is the hard part
of actually putting those modules together.
Just getting those corners into the pockets.
You can see: we're running out of modules.
It's a good sign, we're almost done.
Get everything correct, because
what's more frustrating than
having it almost done and then see
that you need one extra color.
Do you now need to take all of those apart again?
I wouldn't want that.
So I really pay attention to which colors I add.
Or - that's much easier -
pick all different colors, that's really beautiful.
Or you can also use just one color.
If you're doing the 3-coloring
you'll have to pay even more attention
to where you place which colors.
I'd have to study the pattern again to explain it to you.
I know there, and I've done an icosahedron with 3 colors.
It was more work,
but I understood the pattern back then, too.
I don't remember those patterns usually.
I have to have a look again before.
This one is really easy,
so I can remember that.
Right, last module. This is the fun one.
Let's first secure all the rest.
Because, as always,
the module is the hardest to add,
and I don't want anything to fall apart here.
I'm not sure whether that's going to lock the model
too much to actually add this.
So this goes in here.
You could probably cheat and try not to
insert one of the flaps into the pocket.
But we don't like cheating, do we?
I'm quite happy with how this worked out.
I didn't have too many problems
putting this together.
If I can do it - c'mon guys, you can do it, too.
Look, that was the last one.
So you can use kami.
Use clips with it, please.
Else everything will fall apart.
Once all of that is done,
we can remove all those clips.
And as I said, now this isn't going to fall apart easily
because of the tension,
the modules need more space
than they're actually getting.
They're being pushed together, which also makes
the waves a bit stronger.
That's really nice.
And you'll see
that then your "Waves" model
your "Waves" icosahedron is all done.
It's a fantastic model by Meenakshi Mukerji.
Now if you know me, you know I don't do modular
origami a lot, but this model really really inspired me.
And there's lots of other beautiful creations
in this book.
If you like modular origami
I'd say this is a must-buy.
And if you're like me and a bit
"modularly challenged" - how's that? -
this a really good book, too.
The explanations are clear,
it's very clearly shown how to connect stuff
and you can create beautiful things such as these.
Thanks again to Meenakshi Mukerji
for this beautiful design,
for this great book,
and her permission to make this video available to you.
Happy Folding!