Radlager neu Mercedes CL 500 (W140): PART 2

Uploaded by knutzipferd on 23.08.2010

Now we renewed the rings so we can add the new cone bearings as well.
We have to apply quite a quantity of grease.
We needed to fill the lock-ring with grease as well
and here it goes on top.
Let's use the old ring to hammer the lock-ring in.
We have to take care because the lock-ring is made of sheet metal and some rubber only.
Now we have to add about 60g of grease into the middle.
Repeat the same at the outer part.
Add the bearing with the grease applied.
According to the repair manual (WIS), another 15g of grease goes into the cup.
But the cup will only be added later on.
Now back at the car, we decided to clean the axle stub
were the bearing will run on and apply some grease here as well.
If the last mechanician had fastened the bearing too tight with the locknut,
when you would know by the black color of the axle stub,
as bit darker that this and spread over the entire stub.
Now the prepared part goes on top of the axle stub.
Spins light enough.
Now the lock nut has to be put back into place
and it has to be fastened to allow for easy rotation
but with no slack at the same time.
Let's see, spins easily with no slack towards me but if we
open it a little it starts to move which it should not do...
... so adjust just to the point where it does not move/rattle anymore.
Finally we fasten the lock screw.
Later, with the tyre added we can see whether it is still tight enough.
It is recommended not to add the hub protection cap immediately
to allow to readjust the tightness later if necessary.
Next, the brake disc has to be put back.
This is were the lock screw goes
and here we have the two lead bolds that keep the disc in place.
Now the brake caliper has to be put back.
It can happen that the brake shoes are too tight to be put back over the disc.
Then you need to spread them a little but here it's ok.
Again, don't spoil the brake hose.
We'll now fasten the screws with 110 nM using a force limiting screwdriver.
Now, take care after having removed and reinstalled the brakes,
it can happen that the brakes do not respond immediately.
That means later you need to pump the brake foot pedal several times
to build up some pressure and make the brakes work properly, again.
So whenever you worked on the brake, remember to pump the pedal
to reactivate the brake before driving off.
In reverse order, reassemble the brake disk abrasion sensors,
temporarily reassemble the tyre to test the wheel bearing slack
and finally put back the hub protection cap if everything was fine.
The tyre is back provisionally to see whether it rattles and
spins properly which looks good over here.
The tyre has to be removed again, grease filled cup be applied, assemble tyre properly and that's it.
15 gram of grease went here - and don't hammer the cup too hard.
Remark: The tyre screws have to be fastened with about 150nM.