Golf Replacing brake hose. DIY
Uploaded by irina25661 on 02.07.2012
Transcript:
Hi my friends! Today we are going to learn how to replace the brake hoses on a Golf Mk 1
If you have such a nice pit, you may replace the brake hose without removing the wheel
But we want to present you some nice pictures, thus I'll take the wheel off
On this wheel are still the original bolts covers
Before jacking the car, I am loosening the bolts
Just loosen, not more
For jacking the car I secure it at the diagonal wheel
This is the correct place for the jack
The Mk 1 is very light but I don't trust in the jack
A wooden stack is always more reliable
I am going to remove the wheel
and the little wheel is off
Here you see the problem of the old brake hose
Opening the bleeding valve can be a hard job, I apply some rust remover
Further, you'll have to open the connection to the brake caliper and to the brake line
Now you have to take attention. There are different calipers on the Golf Mk 1
This is a Girling caliper. In contrast to the ATE caliper it has a left thread!
Here is the left thread
Remove the cover of the bleeding valve
Please don't try to open this valve with a wrench. Use such a long 7 mm socket
For the brake hose you shouldn't use a open end wrench either
Use a flare-nut wrench or a flare-nut insert tool instead
Attention: Here we have the left thread
For the connection of to the brake line, you need a 11 mm flare-nut wrench and a open-end with 14 mm
and it is open
The brake liquid is already coming out
It was anyhow necessary to change the liquid
Remove the hose from this holder
and take it out of the caliper
Here is a lot of dirt which I would not like to have in the brake lateron
Use pressured air to remove the dirt and close the connection with a cap
Now you see again the damage on the hose
I payed a very high price for this hose, but these rubbers have been not included
I have to change at least this rubber holder to the new hose
For the removal I use some glycerine
For mounting it I apply tender force
Working on a hydraulic system requests care and you must keep all clean
Screw in the left thread at the caliper first
Fasten the hose
Insert the holder here
Remove the protection cap and mount the other side
Take care the thread is easily destroyed
Fasten it a little, then use the flare-nut wrench
And finally we use a torque wrench to fasten it with 15 Nm
Meanwhile I replaced the hose on the other side
Let's have some fun by bleeding the system
Of course you may bleed it by pumping the liquid with the pedal
Or you use such a special lid with a connection for the compressor
I fill the reservoir completly
Of course you cannot use the normal pressure of the compressor
You'll need a reduction to 2 bar
I put now the reservoir under pressure
I put a transparent hose on the bleeding valve and I can operate it with a wrench
and in the same time I blow upstairs
The last air bubbles are coming out
Let's check if we have a good resistance at the pedal
After bleeding close the valve. Be careful you can kill the thread easily
Remove the rest of the liquid with a tissue from the valve
and put the protective cap on it
Remove the special lid
and refill the missing liquid up to maximum level
Mount the normal lid with the warning contact on the reservoir
Brake liquid is rather agressiv, thus I clean all carefully
of course I have a special method to do this
Before I do a test drive I have to dry all up, otherwise I cannot check for leakage
Mount back the extra broad wheels
Before fastening the bolts mount the small hub cap
Fasten the bolts as much as possible with the jacked wheel
Remove the jack and lower the car
90 Nm is fine for the wheel bolts
and let's go
Fasten the bolts always in a cross pattern
Put the small caps on the bolts
and give a tender blow with the rubber hammer
So, all is done, let's make a test drive
Be very careful on the test drive, when braking
After the ride, I check all connection for leakage
All is dry - no problem
The repair is finished. Be always careful when working at the brake system
Don't miss our next video, subscribe the channel now. Bye, bye!
If you have such a nice pit, you may replace the brake hose without removing the wheel
But we want to present you some nice pictures, thus I'll take the wheel off
On this wheel are still the original bolts covers
Before jacking the car, I am loosening the bolts
Just loosen, not more
For jacking the car I secure it at the diagonal wheel
This is the correct place for the jack
The Mk 1 is very light but I don't trust in the jack
A wooden stack is always more reliable
I am going to remove the wheel
and the little wheel is off
Here you see the problem of the old brake hose
Opening the bleeding valve can be a hard job, I apply some rust remover
Further, you'll have to open the connection to the brake caliper and to the brake line
Now you have to take attention. There are different calipers on the Golf Mk 1
This is a Girling caliper. In contrast to the ATE caliper it has a left thread!
Here is the left thread
Remove the cover of the bleeding valve
Please don't try to open this valve with a wrench. Use such a long 7 mm socket
For the brake hose you shouldn't use a open end wrench either
Use a flare-nut wrench or a flare-nut insert tool instead
Attention: Here we have the left thread
For the connection of to the brake line, you need a 11 mm flare-nut wrench and a open-end with 14 mm
and it is open
The brake liquid is already coming out
It was anyhow necessary to change the liquid
Remove the hose from this holder
and take it out of the caliper
Here is a lot of dirt which I would not like to have in the brake lateron
Use pressured air to remove the dirt and close the connection with a cap
Now you see again the damage on the hose
I payed a very high price for this hose, but these rubbers have been not included
I have to change at least this rubber holder to the new hose
For the removal I use some glycerine
For mounting it I apply tender force
Working on a hydraulic system requests care and you must keep all clean
Screw in the left thread at the caliper first
Fasten the hose
Insert the holder here
Remove the protection cap and mount the other side
Take care the thread is easily destroyed
Fasten it a little, then use the flare-nut wrench
And finally we use a torque wrench to fasten it with 15 Nm
Meanwhile I replaced the hose on the other side
Let's have some fun by bleeding the system
Of course you may bleed it by pumping the liquid with the pedal
Or you use such a special lid with a connection for the compressor
I fill the reservoir completly
Of course you cannot use the normal pressure of the compressor
You'll need a reduction to 2 bar
I put now the reservoir under pressure
I put a transparent hose on the bleeding valve and I can operate it with a wrench
and in the same time I blow upstairs
The last air bubbles are coming out
Let's check if we have a good resistance at the pedal
After bleeding close the valve. Be careful you can kill the thread easily
Remove the rest of the liquid with a tissue from the valve
and put the protective cap on it
Remove the special lid
and refill the missing liquid up to maximum level
Mount the normal lid with the warning contact on the reservoir
Brake liquid is rather agressiv, thus I clean all carefully
of course I have a special method to do this
Before I do a test drive I have to dry all up, otherwise I cannot check for leakage
Mount back the extra broad wheels
Before fastening the bolts mount the small hub cap
Fasten the bolts as much as possible with the jacked wheel
Remove the jack and lower the car
90 Nm is fine for the wheel bolts
and let's go
Fasten the bolts always in a cross pattern
Put the small caps on the bolts
and give a tender blow with the rubber hammer
So, all is done, let's make a test drive
Be very careful on the test drive, when braking
After the ride, I check all connection for leakage
All is dry - no problem
The repair is finished. Be always careful when working at the brake system
Don't miss our next video, subscribe the channel now. Bye, bye!