DIY Simulator seat

Uploaded by WizzieDK on 30.04.2012

This is where my racechair sits then I'm not using it - in the corner of the living room.
I don't mind that my friends and guests can see that I'm an enthusiast / geek whatever...
I think it's.. It's fine It's pretty easy to get over here since it's
on wheels and not so heavy, and this corner is pretty much useless anyway, so I might
as well use it for something. Sometimes I take the front section off so
it's just a seat, then it doesn't look so... messy.
Like I said - enthusiast, heh. The accessories for the chair are over here.
Joysticks, handbrake, harness. Spare subwoofer, 5.1 surround.
This is the custom handbrake pad I made. The gearlever sits on either side, so this can
go on both the left and right side of the steering wheel.
Some might recognize this logo - Fiat Abarth. That's a real gear-knob from an old Abarth
127. It's a microswitch down here, that's engaged when you pull back.
And then this spring pulls it forward again. The spring could be stronger but it will do.
Minijack, for the output. I have made all this with minijacks. All my
custom connections, if I'm going to make any further ones I'll be using that again.
This is copper tubing for plumbing. This is actually some of the most expensive parts,
in just.. you know, hobby stuff.
Allright I'm going to show you how to simply remove the shifter column from the left hand
side, because I want to make a right-hand drive car.
Over here. This goes below on the outside.
And it's held in place by the shifter column. Here we go.
Now that's in place, the only thing left is to connect the handbrake using the minijack.
Lemme show you how that's done. I opened up the shifter column and I actually
mapped all the buttons, here and here, to minijacks on the backside. While I had them
out I also colored these so they correspond to the Xbox 360.
And as you can see here, they are all connected here in minijack form, with a little indicator.
The top 2 ones are not in use - I intended to have a set for the sequential shifter, but unfortunately
that's not a button, it's an axis. So fat chance - I couldn't figure that one out.
The handbrake is usually the red button. That's also why I have a red sleeving on the cable.
So plug it in, and now whenever I push the handbrake, it will correspond to a press on
the red button - here, simple! I also have a shift resistance mod. Both the
spring effect when you push down so you don't accidentially go into reverse when it's in
the H-shifter mode, like this. So it offers a bit more resistance when pushing
down now. Also this spring has been tightened - Chilicoke
has an excelent article on this on his website. I'll put a link in the description... stuff.
So both of the shift resistance and reverse mods have been made.
Very nice, I highly recommend it. It's much more enjoyable, especially the shift
resistance mod. And it's not that hard to do, so give it a
go. Obviously MOMO wheel instead of the original
G25. This is a 35cm wheel.
I picked this one up especially because it only has 2 buttons, and I wanted just 2 buttons.
Not all over the place! Like some of them are... Because I wanted to correspond to the
original steering wheel. These are both... I don't know if we can focus
on this, probably not. Both of these buttons are originally connected
together to the horn. So it's acutally 2 buttons for 1 function.
So I cut them up and connected them like the original G25 wheel buttons.
So they each can be mapped as their own function. Chilicoke adapter in anodized aluminium.
Very very nice, great stuff, thanks! And shifter paddles also, for the increased
diameter of this wheel. You should note that once you go for a wheel
with a bigger diameter you will not feel the force feedback effects as much as you do with
the stock wheel. But it's offset by the fact that it feels
more nice to drive with, so I would highly recommend it anyway.
What else? Oh yeah.
Reverse-mounted pedals. Also again, Chilicoke has an article on this
on his website. These can be removed quite easilly.
Not now while the cables are connected, but... These keep it from falling down, and these
keep it from falling in. So when I want to take it out I push here,
and it clears - just! I was lucky hehe.
It clears and I can just pull it out and remove it.
The cables that are normally inside the pedal assembly are not really meant to go externally,
so they are very very very, very thin. And I recommend to desolder them or whatever,
pull them apart and get them inside some nice sleeving. Instead of this. This is just insulation
tape and that's a pretty crappy solution if I'm honest.
But put them inside some nice sleeving so they're protected more, that would seriously
extend their lifespan I would think. The seat is, as you can see a Sparco seat,
and it's mounted on a platform from a VW Transporter - don't ask, I just got it together with the
seat. And it slides on these rails just fine.
So it slides, not freely, you have to put some force into it, but it's fine!
Mounted on 6 wheels, 2 underneath each side of the seat, and one at the front.
The ones at the front and the reat-most ones can be locked. Not so easy with your fingers
but it's fine with your feet. And the locks really do work, it doesn't jiggle
about, at all. Let me show you how the harness installs.
I just installed the harness on one side, and I'm going to do the other one.
I have a 6-point Sparco racing harness. It's a real racing harnes, but it's expired so
I got it pretty cheap.. Well "cheap"... I think I paid about 90$, yeah something like
that. So these are for mounting it.
(yeah yeah, I didn't lock the wheels) And the rear belts are simply fastened to
part of the frame, so as you adjust the seat position they get a little bit tighter, but
usually that's when you change drivers, so it's not a problem.
So here you have it, 6-point racing harness. And no, it's not nescessary - it's completely
pointless, but it's still fun. And it looks cool, and you feel cool when
you're driving it, and you cannot go anywhere! You can not even... If you put your phone
or something up here, and your arms are not long enough - sucks! Can't get it!
And of course, quick release - and everything falls apart, like it should.
I like to drive without this, if I'm driving for a long period, the crotch belt. Because
that's the most annoying one. The rest are fine, but that one sucks.
Okay, now we're about ready to go racing. Just briefly, this is the "beast" that is
delivering the beauty. It's a Core-i7 970 with 24gigs of Avexir Core Series memory,
a 1200 watt power supply - Corsair, a couple of Solid-State drives, 2 Velociraptors down
here, and 2 GTX 590's from Gainward. This is a pretty neat setup, and if you wanna
watch more about it, there's a build-log video in 5 parts, about how I got all this stuff
mounted. So that's running, and I'm currently charging
my NVIDIA 1st generation 3D Vision goggles - active 3D glasses. Forgot to charge them,
whoops. I have a couple of extra sets, so if I have
guests over they can also watch. We like to watch each others races while we wait.
This is probably the most expensive candle holder...
Yes that is valves, and yes they are broken. Anyway!
Alienware 3D monitor, 23". Naturalpoint *TrackIR 5*, headtracking.
NVIDIA transmitter. For those of you who don't know *TrackIR*,
this little fella is an IR camera, that sends out an IR light and senses the return from
these 3 pads. So this is the passive way of doing it, these
are just reflective pads, mounted on a cap. There is also the TrackClip Pro, which is
here. A USB connector, and you put this on your
headset, and these 3 prongs at the front are IR diodes, so they will send out IR light,
and this is much more useful, much more excact and prescise if you are in a lit environment.
So if there's sunlight in here, that's the way to go.
But if it's just normal, like now, closed blinds, it's fine to just use the passive
one and put it on a cap, it's more comfortable. So, let's get racing!
Allright, let's get ready to race! Sequential, 3D, and TrackIR.
Honestly TrackIR is not so great for racing, but...
(it takes some getting used to, and the benefit is negligible)
I suck! Been a while since I played.
Okay now we're going to swap the racing-setup - this.
For.. this. Logitech G940.
And this requires a bit of tools, just some 13mm hex - that's it.
So I'm just gonna park the camera and do some magic timelapse!
I just wanted to talk about this particular shape.
Hellooo~! This might look a bit strange, and no it's
not because it looks more like a spoiler or.. wing.
It actually follows the Steel Battalion Controller for the original Xbox.
This platform is made to accomodate that, as well as Logitechs.
So it's a 3-in-1 solution. And the pedals fit underneath, and the big-ass
game-controller with 2 joysticks and 40 buttons and all that fits on top.
I just haven't gotten around to fitting nuts inside it so it can be secured.
And also I want to do some vibration mods and, whatever.
So I haven't gotten around to it-Nooo! Anyway... So! - on with it!
The chair can also be used without the front rig.
I'll show you how to remove it. This comes off. It's fine to leave it on,
but just for demonstration I'll show you how. The bottom plate has 3 guides, with some rubber
in the bottom, so it doesn't make noise. That's it - 4 thumb screws / butterfly-screws,
whatever you wanna call them. That's it.
And now to put it back together.
That's it, that's all
I have
for you. Thanks for watching, and I hope you can use
some of my ideas and work on them yourself, and improve them I hope. Share your video
if you do. Cheers!