Knit Maxi Dress - McCall's Pattern 6697


Uploaded by ProfessorPincushion on 08.01.2013

Transcript:
Professor Pincushion: Welcome to Professor Pincushion. In this tutorial we are going
to be doing McCall's pattern 6697. Now in this particular pattern, there are two size
groupings. So you want to make sure you get the right size and you can check it out by
looking at the side right here and you can see the size is listed. Now in this tutorial
we are going to be doing version D which is the longer dress that you can see hear on
the envelope. Now if you decide that you want to do B or C you can also follow on most of
the steps with us.
The only difference is, in ours we are not going to be putting in sleeves like you can
see in view C. Now let's take a look at an example of the dress that we are going to
be making in this tutorial. This is the dress that we are going to be making in the tutorial
and since we are doing view D, it's a little bit longer than what we can see on camera.
Now we are also going to be doing a demonstration on how to create and put in the sleeve. So
if you are interested in doing view C, you can go ahead and see our tutorial on that
as well.
Now it's made out of a net fabric, so it means it's stretchy and there will be no
fasteners in this dress. So we don't have to worry about zippers or buttons or anything
of that nature. So a nice dress, it just pulls over the top and fits very comfortably and
flares out at the bottom. So this is a nice simple dress, but it's very classy looking
with the style. So let's now take a look at the back of the pattern envelope. Next
we need to figure out what size we are, so we know which pattern to cut out and then
also how much fabric to get. Now the retail size and the pattern size is not the same
number.
So that's why it's always important to consult the patterns. You can figure out what size
you are going to be for that particular pattern. And you can find that by looking at the body
measurements chart and this is found on the top flap of the envelope. So the numbers that
are here at the top, these are the sizes for the pattern and then underneath here we are
have bust, waist and hip. These are all measurements that go with each size.
So for example if I am looking at my bust measurement and these are all in inches, you
are going to find which one is closest to you, then for the waist and for the hips and
whatever column fits up, that's the size that you are going to be. So for example,
I am going to be doing a size 12. Now if you need help on taking your body measurements
and figuring out what size you are going to be, definitely consult our tutorial on how
to take your own body measurements.
Now we consult at the back of the pattern envelope to figure out how much fabric we
are going to need. So you are going to have your size in mind and then you are going to
look up here and you are going to see all of the sizes and then anything under your
size that's how much fabric you are going to get.
Over here on the left you are going to see A, B, C and The, these are different dress
views. So I am doing view D, so I would only have to look at this box here and then kind
of ignore these other boxes. Now to figure out what kind of fabric to use you can see
right down here they have suggested fabric. So they are saying Jersey, interlock, knits.
So you need to use a fabric that has a stretch to it, if you get a cotton or a fabric with
no stretch it's not going to work for this pattern. This is very important.
Now to test and make sure your fabric has enough stretch, if you look up here at the
top of the envelope they have this little nifty thing for us to use. So if you have
a four-inch piece and you are holding it right here, you take this end, you stretch it, at
least needs to stretch to this end here. I am holding it on this side and I am just stretching
it from this end and making sure that it at least gets to this point. If you can do that
with your fabric then you are going to be fine.
Okay so back to how much fabric we are going to need. So remember how I said you find your
size and you just scroll down and then you can figure out how much fabric you need. Well
in my case you don't see it listed under here. So this means for my particular case,
if I am doing view D, it doesn't matter what size you are doing, with for 60 inch with
fabric I am going to need one and 7/8th yards.
So it doesn't matter if I am doing six 6 or size 22, everybody is going to need 1 and
7/8ths. Now this view uses two different fabrics. You have your main fabric, the 1 and 7/8ths
and then there is a contrasting fabric which is also 60 inch in width and they are asking
one and 5/8ths. So you need to make sure you get this fabric and then you get a contrasting
fabric for this one. Again this is for all sizes. Okay so now we are going to pull out
our instruction sheets from the envelope and on the first page you are going to see something
like this.
So this is going to be a picture of all the different views again and again we are doing
view D and if we just look below that what you are going to see is this handy chart which
is a layout of all the different pattern pieces that are included this envelope. You will
see the pattern pieces and then you will see a number with it. Now down here we have a
listing and these numbers correspond to the pattern piece. So number one is the middle
front. Now this is the dress A, B, C and D. So they are basically showing you all of the
pattern pieces for A, B, C and D. So if it doesn't have anything listed behind it, like
this is middle, front and it doesn't have an A, B, C or D.
That means it's for all of these. So it doesn't matter which one you are doing, you are going
to need to cut out piece number one, same thing with number two. Now here you see 2A
extension D. So that means only if you are doing view D will you need to cut out this
piece and it's very important because we are going to add this to piece number two
and you can see it right here is 2 and 2E.
We are going to actually attach them to make one long piece because it's a long dress.
So what I will like to do is I would like to put a little check mark next to each one
that I know that I need to cut out so then I don't accidentally cut out something that
I don't need. Like you can see right here for number 9, there is an A behind here. So
I am not doing view A, so I don't need to cut out 9 and I am also not doing a sleeve.
So I don't need to cut out 12. But everything else for view D, I am going to have to cut
out.
Pulling out the tissue paper, you are going to see all your pattern pieces. And they all
have numbers like this one does here and these numbers then correspond to the same numbers
here. So if you mark it off that you need to cut out piece number 8, well this is piece
number 8 right here. Now you will see, there will be a series of lines here with these
dashes that are different links.
Each of these lines is a different size. And you can see right here is 6, 8, 10 and 12.
So you just need to find out what size you are and then you are cut the line above that
size. So I did a size 12, so my line is kind of cut off right here, there in cut right
on -- either right on top of the line or just right outside the line. So then if I was going
to do a size 6, I would do this line right here. If you have
a line that has no number next to it and it's just a solid line, that means it's for all
sizes, so you would cut it out, not matter what size you are doing.
Now you will see we have this little triangles here. These are notches, so I have a single
notch here and then I have a double notch and a double notch. These are important for
when you are placing your pieces together. So you definitely want to make some sort of
indication. Now you can do whatever you want in order that you will know that there is
a notch there. But you will see that I like to cut outwards and if it's a double notch
I just flatten the top here. So I know the difference between a double notch and if it's
a single notch it's just a little triangle on the outside there. Now you can also if
you want, you can cut into the tissue paper and create the little notch if you want.
Again whatever you need to do in order to make sure that you know it's there. Now you
will see this triangle right here. On the inside of the pattern piece, if you see something
like this, this is not a notch. This is going to be a mark of some kind. So you don't have
to worry about doing some sort of mark like this. We will just leave this and tell we
have our fabric cut out. If you are doing view D, some of your pattern pieces are going
to have extension pieces. You are going to have to tape two pieces together and then
cut out the pattern piece as a whole.
So one of this example is going to be piece number two. And you will see at the bottom
of piece two, you have a line with all these little dots all over them. If we look at extension
to A, you will also see the same thing. So all they want you to do is you can roughly
cut out both pieces, then you are going to match each of these dots, so the 2 As right
on top of 2 and these are lining up. Then you can go ahead tape it down and then go
ahead and cut out your size that you need. Now I would also consult the McCall's product
page for this pattern and look for your size, the finished length of the dress.
They give a finished length from the base of your neck down to the hemline of the dress.
If you are like me, where you tend to be on the short side or you tend to be on the tall
side, you definitely want to consult this because for my -- in my example, the dress
ends up being a little long. So at this point, after you cut your pattern pieces, you can
decide if you want to shorten the dress. Now if you look at the bottom of the hemline of
the pieces, it will say lengthen or shorten here.
So from this point you can go ahead and shorten it if you need to or you can add some on the
bottom if you want to make it longer. Just make sure that you do it for all the pieces
that have a hemline and you know that because this is lengthen or shorten here at the bottom.
Now if you are doing one of the other views, let me just move this down. We have here,
cut here for A, B and C because they are also using piece number two. But since they are
doing a short dress, they are going to go ahead and cut on this line. And again this
is the hem right here and then lengthen or shorten here if for whatever reason you want
to lengthen or shorten the short version of this dress.
So that's just something you want to pay attention to before you go ahead and cut everything
out of your fabric, just to save yourself a little bit of time. After your pattern pieces
are cut out, then we can move on to cutting out our fabric. But please make sure that
pre-treat your fabric before you cut out your pattern pieces. So then you can get out all
the pre-shrinking first and not have to worry about after you made your garment. So letÃs
take a look. Now you will see on the top of page two, it has dress D.
So this is the one we need to look at, on the front page at the bottom is for all the
other views. Now you will see here we have dress D and then we have contrast D. So these
are all for view D, we just have one out of our main fabric and then one out of our contrasting
fabric. And you can see up here at the top, it says what pattern pieces it's using and
then they also list the pattern pieces inside these shapes here. So because it's says selvage
and selvage, what this is meaning is that you are going to take your fabric, the full
60 inches and whatever length it is and you are going to open it up.
So it's a single layer fabric all flat. Make sure that none of it is hanging off the table
or it's not being stretched in any way because this is knit. We want to make sure that it
is lying flat and it's not going to get distorted when we are cutting it out. So here for the
main fabric, we need to cut out piece 6 plus remember we have the extension taped on, piece
two also with the extension and then you will see, 10, 10, 8 and 4. Now ten is twice. That's
because we need two pieces of piece number 10. These ones here, we only need one.
But if ten, we need two of them. Now you will see this one, is kind of shaded and this one
is not. This is telling us that when you pin number ten, you have the printed side facing
up. If it's white, like these are white, that means that the pattern piece is upright
and all the writing is right side and you are looking at the writing. This side, we
are shaded, that means after you cut it out, you take the pattern piece off, you place
it down again, but you place it upside so the print of the pattern pieces is going down
towards the fabric.
So this is right side of pattern, this is wrong side pattern. So that's how you get
two of them, but we just -- why we flip this one upside down, the pattern piece at least
is because we want to make sure that they are the same piece, but they are opposite.
So then once you have all those cut out and again you are just going to place your pins
and for knit, I like to use ballpoint pens. It seems to work a little bit better. So I
place my pins parallel to the edge of my pattern pieces and then I cut right along my size
line again. Here we have the contrasting, so now this is going to be my other fabric.
Again selvage, selvage. So we are going to lay it all out nice and flat, single layer
and then we are kind of cut out 5, 1, 7, 3 and 11, 11.
So this is just like with ten. Print side facing up, print side facing down and then
go ahead and cut out all your pieces. After cutting out your fabric pieces, it's a good
idea just to keep your pattern pieces pinned to your fabric pieces, just put in a couple
of pins. That way when we are going through the directions, we know exactly which pieces
we are going to need to work with. You can, we can either say, oh we needed to have piece
number 8 or if we say upper left back piece, which is right here below the number.
Also don't forget to transfer any marks you have to your fabric pieces, either with chalk
or a fabric pin or some sort of indication. There are many different ways it might be
a square, it might be a triangle, it might be a dot or a circle. You just need to find
the one that has your size and then make sure you transfer that to the wrong side. So usually
what I do is I find my size and size 12, put a pin through it and then I flip it over to
the wrong side. Here is my pencil right here and then I just make a mark here. So I did
for this one and I would do it for this one. Now some of them might have a series of dots
and I will say for A only.
So if you are not doing view A, you don't have to worry about that particular, say if
it's just a circle or a square and it doesn't have any letter next to it, it usually means
it's for all views. All right, so now we are getting ready to sew and the next thing
I like to look at is the fabric information I have here. So this is going to help us read
the picture directions we have here, this fabric key. So you will see here we have the
shaded, white, polka dot and then shaded with lines and then white with lines. So the nice
thing is we don't have to worry about these three because we are not using lining or interfacing
for these particular dresses, so that's nice.
But here, this just means if you see something that's shaded, you are looking at the right
side of the fabric. And if you just see a white, that means you are looking at the wrong
side of the fabric. So if we were to use this as an example, this is going to be the wrong
side of the fabric. So we are kind of looking at the inside of the garment here. This little
bit right here, where you are looking the seam that's pressed flat, that is the right
side of the garment.
So its just makes it a little bit easier when you are trying to read and figure out what's
going on in the picture. Also nice seam allowance, it's going to be 5/8ths of an inch. So I
always try to find that out right from the start. So if it's going to be something different,
it's going to say in the directions, if we need to change it, but if it doesn't say
then we always assume it's going to 5/8ths. If we look up here, at the top, we are going
to get started with our directions and these directions are for all views but then you
look down here and it will say view A.
So if you are doing, for example we are doing view D, we can go ahead and skip one and we
just scroll down until we see ours right down here, views B, C and D. So then we can go
ahead and start with this one. So we are going to get started and putting our dress together.
The first step for view D is step number three, stitch middle front to front, press seam allowance
toward front. So what we are going to do is you are going to need piece one and piece
two. So I have them here.
And I actually have them, we are going to remove this one, so I am moving one and moving
two and these are pretty long. So we can't see the whole thing. As you will notice that
and I have it wrong side facing up on both of them.
So this is the wrong side and this is the wrong side. Right side is down towards the
table. So you will see here I have single notch, single notch and then I have a double
notch over here. On this piece over here, single notch, single notch and then I have
another single notch over here. So at the sides I have the two single notches, this
side and this side, they are going to go together. So this is going to start here, just going
to move this down a little bit because we are going to pin these two pieces together.
Now you will always pin right side to right side.
So the right side is down towards the table, so all I am going to do is flip this over,
so now I have the right side facing up. And I am going to have this and now I have the
right side down here. So all I am going to do is just lay it on top, the right side of
the black. So the single notches are matching and I am going to pin all along this right
edge here. We are not going to do anything with this edge or this edge right now. And
again I like using the ballpoint pens because that really helps to make sure that your notches
all match and then you are going to make sure that the very end matches as well.
So I am just going to go ahead and pin this and then we will take it to the machine, so
you can go ahead and stitch it. Remember we are going to do a 5/8th inch seam allowance
and I put in a ballpoint needle and also using all purpose thread. Now when you are sewing
with knit you have a couple of different options when it comes to sewing your seams.
You can either do a straight stitch or you can also do a zigzag stitch. When you do your
seam though as you are sewing you are just going to slightly pull along the seam line
as you are stitching it. So that way we maintain some of the stretchiness. You don't have
to really yank on it, just slightly pull it as you are sewing it. So I am going to go
ahead and get started here. I actually like doing the zigzag stitch, do a couple of back
stitches because we don't want it to come out.
And I am just going to go from the top to the bottom of where we pinned. And the nice
thing that what I like about knits is you really don't have to worry about the raw
edges fraying, so that makes it a lot easier to work with. After you finish stitching your
seam, you are then going to take your seam allowance and you are going to press it towards
the number one piece. So this is, we are looking at the wrong side of the fabric. Here is my
seam allowance right here and I am just keeping it close, pressing at instruction.
Let's move on to step number four. Stitch upper front to front, press seam allowance
toward front. Stitch upper left front to upper front, press seam allowance toward upper front.
So what we are going to do now is we are going to take piece that we just sewed together.
So this is one and two, I just flipped it over so as the right side of the garment now,
so the colors are flipped. So it's going to go 1, 2, 3, 4, that's how we are going
to stitch our pieces together.
So and first we are going to do piece number three. So I am going to go ahead and remove
this pattern piece for now. And I have this right side facing up, this right side facing
up and you will notice that we have a notch here and you have a notch here on piece number
three. Now this notch is higher, this is the one, the higher one is going to go to piece
number four. This lower notch is going to meet up with this notch right here, piece
number two.
So all I am going to do is flip this, so it's right side to right side. And I am going to
pin all along the right edge matching up here, matching the notch and then matching till
the end of piece number 3. Now you will notice that this piece, piece number three doesn't
go all the way to the end of piece number two. What you do need to match, but to grab
my pattern piece again, is at the very end of piece number three, you will see a square
with these dotted lines.
This square should match up another square that's on the bottom of piece number two.
So if those match then it's fine, just go ahead, pin all along the right edge from the
top to the squares and you are going to go ahead and stitch your 5/8ths inch seam allowance
and go ahead and then press this open and press your seam allowance towards this. So
we are pressing towards the number one again. So we are going to pretend like this is already
stitched. So now we have 1, 2 and 3. Now I am going to grab piece number 4 and it's
actually one of these little pieces right here.
And you will see a piece number four has a notch and then it has like this curve section.
So this part is going to go away from the other pieces. Okay and I have a notch here,
it's kind of hard to see. This is going to match this notch right here. So I will line
this up and you will see it's starting to take the shape of a dress here, the front
of it. So I am going to flip this. So it's going to be right side to right side three
and four, pin, stitch your 5/8ths in the seam allowance. And then press your seam allowance
towards this direction.
Steps five through seven are for view A, so we are going to go ahead and skip to step
number 8, stitch middle back to back, press seam allowance toward the back. So for this,
we are going to working with piece number five and piece number six. Now we are working
on the back of the dress. So here is number five and you will see what we have here is
sort of a long curve here and then you have a slight curve and then you have this little
notch area right here.
We are going to be working on this edge here. I am going to go ahead and remove the pattern
for number five. And I have the right side facing up. Next we have piece number six.
So again you have this short little curved area and then a slightly longer curved area.
This side here below the short little curved area right here and we have a double notch.
This edge is going to match up with this edge. So let's go ahead and remove this one.
Now this is right side facing up, right side facing up. We want to match up this edge with
this edge. So all I am going to do is take this piece, flip it over, so right side to
right side, match up, the double notches match up the end with the end here. And then pin
it all the way to the very, very end here. Then just like before you are going to go
ahead, stitch here 5/8ths into seam allowance, open it up and you are going to press your
seam allowance towards piece number five, so this direction.
Step nine, stitch upper back to back, press seam allowance toward back. Stitch upper left
back to upper back, press seam allowance toward upper back. So now we are going to be attaching
piece 7 and piece 8 to the back dress that we are already working on. So again this is
5, 6, 7 and then we will add 8. So on this side, on 6 you have the double notch here.
On 7 you also have a double notch. So you can go ahead, remove piece 7 right side up,
right side up, we are going to take this, flip it over, so right sides are together.
We are going to match the double notch, this top edge here, the right edge you are going
to pin all along here keep pinning, matching up these raw edges and you are going to pin
for view D until you get to the square, there should be a square at the bottom of this piece
and then also on piece 6 down there at the bottom. So I am just going to go ahead and
stitch my 5/8ths inch seam allowance from the top here, until I get to the box at the
end or the square at the end of these two pieces.
And then you are going to go ahead, press your seam allowance this way. Then you are
going to grab piece 8, so we are going to pretend like this is stitched. We are going
to open this up like that. And you will see, have a straight edge here, so that's where
we are going to fit piece number 8 now. You see we have a straight edge here, so what
we are going to do right side to right side flip this over, so they match, line it up
from top to bottom, go ahead stitch your 5/8ths inch seam allowance, press it open making
sure that now the seam allowance is pressed towards this direction.
Step ten, stitch lower front and back to front and back at right side edge and then stitching
at large circle, press seam toward middle front and back. So we are not going to be
attaching piece ten to our dress back and our dress front. So you have two of these
pieces, so one is going to be attached to the dress back and one is going to be attached
to the dress front. You just need to make sure that you attach the right one because
for, since we cut out two of these number tens, they should be opposite. So we are going
to start with the dress back.
So this is my dress back right here, right side facing up. This is more towards the bottom
of the dress and what I am going to do is I am going to match up this raw edge on piece
number five. Here is one of my tens, I also have it right side facing it up and if I am
to remove this out of the way you will see this edge right here, they line up perfectly.
So all I am going to do is take this ten and I am going to flip it. So it's right side
together, line up this raw edge go ahead pin it, stitch my 5/8th inch seam allowance. Now
you will notice if I bring in my pattern again, at the top of this pattern number ten, you
will have a circle. There should also be a circle at the top part right here, a 5 if
I was to flip this over. You can see it right here. So this circle should match up with
the circle that I have here which is kind of hard to see in my black.
So that's where you are going to stop stitching. So you are going to do your 5/8ths inch seam
allowance from here down to the bottom. Then go ahead, flip it out. Now your seam allowance
is going to be pressed towards the number five piece. Now here is the bottom of my dress
front, so now this is piece number one. So now I am going to take my other number ten
and attach it to piece one just like I did in the last step. So I have right side to
right side, I am going to go ahead and flip this over, line up these raw edges, again
you have this circle at the end here.
You are going to do your 5/8ths inch seam allowance, press this open and you are going
to press your seam allowance toward the number one piece. Step 11 stitch lower front and
back to the right side edge of lower, front and back and then stitching at square, press
seam toward lower front and back. So now we are going to attach our last piece which is
piece number 11.
Now you only have to do this if you are doing view D because this is the longer portion
of the dress. So here is number ten, here is 11 again out of 11, you should cut out
two of them because we are going to attach the 11 to each of the number ten. So that's
the dress front and the dress back. Now you will notice on the edge of 10, we have a notch.
I also have one notch on 11. So we want to make sure that these notches match up.
So I have both pieces facing right side up. So this is just one of number, I just laid
one right side facing up and sure enough the notches are matching, the edges are matching.
So this is the one that goes together. If it was like this right side facing up and
the notches on the opposite side, that means that it goes on the other dress, either the
dress back or the dress front. But this is the right one, so all I need to do flip it
over.
So the right sides are together, the notches matching up. The bottom is matching up and
up here at the top is matching up. Now if you look at the pattern piece we have another
square. There is my square right there and I should have another square on number ten.
So you are going to want to make sure that those match up from the square down to the
bottom you are going to stitch your 5/8ths inch seam allowance, go ahead and press it.
and you are going to press your seam allowance in the same direction as you press the previous
one, the number ten.
So for this one I am pressing it towards the number five or the number one piece. So I
am going to go ahead and stitch both of these pieces on, both for the front and for the
back of the dress. And then we'll move onto the next step. We can now skip ahead to step
16, stitch back and front together at shoulders and sides. So now is the fun part, we are
going to take the back of the dress and the front of the dress and now we are going to
attach them. What we are going to do is attach them at the shoulder seams and the side seams
as well.
So this right here, this is the neckline, we are not going to be stitching here and
you are also not going to be stitching at the bottom of the dress at the hemline. So
this is my back, I have right side facing up. I am going to grab the front now and I
am going to lay the right side of the front to the right side of back. So that can be
right on top of each other, just have to find the top of the dress here.
All right so right side to right side. So I am going to match up the shoulder seams
here making sure that you are matching up the edges and then also there is a notch here,
the notches are matching up. And you are going to go ahead, pin it and then you are going
to stitch your 5/8ths inch seam allowance, I am going to do the same thing over here
with the shoulder and stitch across that as well. And then you can go ahead and press
these seams open once you have that.
Next what we are going to do is we are going to now match up the side seams here. So you
notice you have a double notch, I have a double notch on my front as well. I am going to match
up the top the double notch and go all the way down to the side. Now you also want to
make sure that for example here, we have the seam between the cream and the black in my
example. I am going to want to make sure that this seam here for the front is going to line
up with that seam.
So it's all going to be the same and it's all going to be even. Go ahead and do that
side. It's going to be a lot easier once I am able to stand up and straighten all this
out, just doing the best I can right now. All right so then 5/8ths inch seam allowance
and go ahead and press that open. And then I am going to be doing the same exact thing
on this side. So matching the top here, matching the notch I have right here and then any seams
I have like the seam right here, I am going to match up with this seam right here.
And then go ahead, do your 5/8ths inch seam allowance and press it open. Step 17 make
5/8ths of an inch narrow hem and neck edge. So now we are going to be dealing with the
neckline of the dress, so that's going to be this area all the way around here inside
curve area and we are going to get a little closer, so I can show you how to do a narrow
hem, but you are definitely going to need to grab your straight pins and your sewing
gauge, so we are just going to get a little closer into this area so I an show you how
to make the narrow hem.
We are going to be working on the inside of the dress, you want to make sure that your
dress is inside out. And what I am going to do is all along this raw edge, again this
is for the whole neckline. I am going to turn it over from the right side to the wrong side,
5/8ths of an inch. So I am just going to measure with my sewing gauge and you are just going
to go ahead, put a pin to hold it and go all along the whole neckline. After you finish
doing this part and it's pinned all the way around, go ahead and press it.
So you get a nice crease right up here on top. So once you have this as a fold, you
are then going to go back and I will just remove one pin at a time. And you have this
raw edge right here. We want to hide this, so what you are going to do is you can go
ahead, open it up, take you raw edge, fold it down to the crease that you just created
in the last part. So this crease right here that's what you are going to fold it to.
And then you are just going to fold it back into place, so you have your original crease
here and then you have a new fold right here.
So it's two folds, this fold and this fold and go ahead and put your pin into place.
And you are going to do this all the way around the neckline. So it's going to look really
nice and neat on the inside. Then I would go ahead, press it again and what we are going
to do is we are going to stitch right along this inside fold right here, right along on
the edge. We are going to now stitch down my narrow hem, so I am just going to make
sure that I am stitching right along this fold line right here.
You want to make sure that you don't actually cross it because then this is going to be
open. So you are going to stitch on this side of it and try to get as straight as you can.
Step 18, make 5/8ths of an inch narrow hem arm hole edges. So if you are not putting
sleeves into your dress, you need to finish your armhole edges because we need to make
sure that we don't just have raw edges here, just like we did with the neckline. So just
like we did in the previous step, you are going to fold over your raw edge 5/8ths of
an inch. You are going to press it, take the raw edge, fold it to the crease, press it
again and then stitch along the bottom fold there and I have already actually done it
to this armhole over here.
Now I am going to show the steps that you will take if you wanted to do view C of this
dress which is to add sleeves to it. Now if you do add sleeves, you can skip step 18 which
is the narrow hem around the armholes because all you are going to do is directly attach
the sleeves to the armholes and you don't have to do any sort of hem. Now if you are
doing a sleeveless dress and you have already done the narrow hem, you can go ahead and
skip to step 23. So right we are going to go over step 19 which is ease stitch upper edge
of sleeve between small circles.
So here is pattern piece number 12. This is the sleeve and you should have cut two out,
if you are going to do the sleeves for it. And you will see up here at the top we have
a large circle and then we have two small circles over here and you just have to mark
the one for your size. And I actually have it already marked on my fabric on the right
side of the fabric and then what you are going to do is you are just going to do a basting
stitch from one small dot to the other dot.
You are going to right through this large circle here and go from here to here. So this
is going to be the largest stitch on your machine and you are going to be sure that
you do not back stitch because we want to make sure that we are going to be able to
gather the cap of the sleeve in order to fit it in. And you are actually doing to do two
rows of stitches. You can go ahead and do one at the 5/8ths inch seam allowance and
then you can do one a little bit in front of that one. So probably about a half inch,
so 5/8ths half inch, do two rows of basting stitches and remember not to back stitch.
So the ease stitch is just a temporary stitch so that's why I am using black on this because
you can eventually take it out. It's just to help you put in the sleeve. So I am going
to go ahead and do this side. And then this is at the 5/8ths inch line, I am going to
get to the last circle, I can stop, pull it out and then I am going to do another one
at the half inch mark.
Step 20 stitch sleeve seam. So now we are going to do the underarm seam of this sleeve
and you will see that on the long edges here, we have a notch and you have another one on
the side of the notch. So with the right side facing up I am going to bring one edge to
the other one, so the right side of the sleeve is together. I am going to match the end of
the sleeve, this point right here and then also the notch. You can go ahead, pin this
area and do your 5/8ths inch seam allowance and press your seam open.
Step 21 turn up one and a quarter sleeve hem, base close to fold, finish raw edge, so hem
in place, easing in fullness, if necessary press. So now we are going to hem up the bottom
of our sleeves. So what you are going to need is your straight pins and your sewing gauge
and you are going to mark your sewing gauge to one and a quarter inches. So here is the
bottom of my sleeve, here is my seam that I just pressed open.
So I am going to have it wrong side facing out and I am going to turn this over one and
a quarter inches. That looks about right and I am going to go ahead and pin it around this
whole parameter of the bottom sleeve of this measurement here. Once I have done that, the
next step what they want you to do is down here where you have a fold they just want
you to baste it along this folded edge here. So you are just -- it's just a temporary
stitch to hold it for you and it's going to be the longest stitch in your machine.
You don't have to worry about back stitching, again it's just a temporary stitch to hold
it.
So you go ahead and do your basting stitch, now for finishing the raw edge you have a
choice. If you have a serger you can serge it, you can do sort of an overlock stitch
on your sewing machine, if you have it you can cut it with pinking shears if you want
or what we have been doing like with a narrow hem, you can just take this raw edge, turn
it over, about a quarter of an inch all the way around and then you can go ahead and stitch
right next to that fold line there.
So that's what I am going to do for this one. And then once you are all done with that
you can go ahead, press the sleeves so your creases are nice and crisp and then after
the stitch you can go ahead and remove that basting stitch. Step 22 with right sides together
pin sleeve and armhole placing large circle at shoulder seam, adjust ease, baste, easing
sleeves slightly to fit below small circles. Stitch, stitch again one quarter inch away
from seam allowance, trim close to stitching, press seam allowances flat, turn seam towards
sleeve.
So that sounds like a lot, but essentially what we are doing is we are going to be sewing
our sleeves into our armholes. So I am just going to show you on one, but of course you
are going to do it for both of them. Here is my dress. I have my under arms seam here,
I have my shoulder seam here and then I have a couple of notches inside. The double notch
and I have a single notch. On my other armhole it's essentially the same, but these notches
are flipped.
So the double notches on this side and the single notches on this side. I am going to
take my armhole. I am now going to switch itself with right side out for the armhole.
This dress right now I am looking at it inside out. You are going to take the cap of your
sleeve and this is the part that has the basting stitches, the cap is going to come through
the armhole and we are going to the match the seam of the sleeve with the underarm or
the side seam of the dress.
But you are going to do it to the right side of the seam not to the wrong side, where you
can see the seam allowance. I am going to grab my pins here. Now remember how we had
these dots at the top of the sleeve. You should have one, big one in the middle and then you
have the two side ones right here. The large circle gets matched to the shoulder seam at
the top. Again it's going to be at the right side of the sleeve to the right side of the
shoulder of the dress.
So I am going to stick a pin into that. Your sleeve is also going to have notches. So you
see here I have a single and I have a double notch over here. So you are going to want
to make sure that it's the same for your dress. So I have a single notch here and a
double notch here. Now if I was to stick in the sleeve and it was flipped, this double
notch was over here. It just means that I need to put the sleeve in the other armhole.
So that's all it means because this should be opposite.
So then I am going to pin these areas. Now on your dress, there should be small dots
which match up to the small dots on your sleeve. I have one over here and then I have one over
here. Now you will notice is we are trying to pin in the rest of the sleeve. At the cap
part of the sleeve it maybe a little big and not really fit into the armhole of the dress.
That is why we did these basting stitches or these ease stitches.
So you are just going to pull them a little bit in order to gather the area and you see
how it's getting a little wavy. That's just kind of cinching it in and we are not going
to create any wrinkles or anything like that. We are just trying to distribute the fullness
of the sleeve, you can always just shift this down a little bit and I would also do the
same on this side until it fits into the armhole of this sleeve. So then I am going to pin
this all the way around. Once it fits I am going to go ahead and stitch my 5/8ths inch
seam allowance all the way around attaching the sleeve in there.
Once you do that stitching you are then going to do another stitch one quarter of an inch
away from that. So 5/8ths and then you can do one at the 3/8ths inch mark. So you are
going to do the two row stitches all the way around because we are going to have a lot
of wear and tear in your sleeves and you want to make sure that you are not going to get
any popped seams or anything like that, so that's really going to make it stay in there a while.
After you finish doing the two rows of stitches, go ahead and trim your seam allowance, you
are not going to cut into your stitches, you are just going to trim to the stitches and
from then your sleeve is pretty much in, you are just going to press it, so the seam goes
to the inside of the sleeve. All right so it's our last step, step 23, make 5/8ths
of an inch, narrow hem at lower edge. So now we are going to do our hem and then we are
done and we have a beautiful new dress to wear.
So to do this there saying is all on the bottom of your dresses is the bottom of dress and
I have it wrong side out still. What I am going to do is fold up the bottom 5/8ths of
an inch, you know just like we did before with the neckline and with the armholes, same
thing. So 5/8ths of an inch go ahead, pin it all the way around, press it, take the
raw edge, fold it to our crease, pin it again and press it and then you just stitch right
along the top.
Now before you do this, it's a good idea to try on the dress and see if you need to
cut off any of the length, if it's the length that you actually want it and sometimes because
our bodies aren't perfect and we are all different it maybe that because of the way
you stand or the way your body shape is and maybe a little shorter in the back or a little
shorter in the front, that it is on the other side. So you just want to check it out and
see maybe you have to hem it up a little bit more on the front than you do in the back.
So that's why it's always a good idea to try on your garment before you do the hem,
but then once you have that and you stitch it up, your dress is done. At this point the
dress is complete, so go ahead and remove any basting stitches that you have and any
chalk or fabric markers that's still on your fabric. This has been made with McCall's
pattern 6697. Enjoy your new dress.
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