Maytag Neptune Control Board R11 and Q6 Repair


Uploaded by neptunewaxmotorcom on 23.08.2008

Transcript:
Hello! Today weíre going to look at replacing your R11 in a Q6 on your Neptune control board.
Obviously, youíve had wax motor failure and when that fails it causes Q6 to overheat which
shorts out internally and then that causes the R11
to cook. Now, I recommend you putting your board in some foil,
just standard aluminium foil, if youíre going to carry it from the washing machine to a
bench, a kitchen table, wherever youíre going to do your soldering
because if you walk across the carpet or some tile can generate static also.
Especially in the colder months when the weather is really dry, you can zap the board and do
more damage and you have to buy a new board. So, we have to take some
static precautions to make sure we donít damage the board more than it
already is. Okay, here we have the R11 and the Q6. The R11 is - Iíve already changed
these. Iím just doing this again for practice. And weíll go to the procedure.
Okay. Here, weíre going to clip the R11. Now mine, this is a good resistor, sorry it
had been replaced but on yours, you just clip the leads, it falls away and then
when you clip the Q6, weíd like to have some leads left for our needle-nose
to pull. Okay. The R11, we will take and heat up the lead and pull up. Once the lead gets
to the temperature in the mark, the melting solder you can just pour it up
of that. Here, we will try to do the same on the Q6. But our leads are kind of
short. So, what Iím going to do now is just push it down through and then we will flip
the board over and pull the leads out that way.
Okay, here we have the R11, right here. And here, we have the Q6, the three leads. Okay,
Iím going to go ahead and pull the leads up. Sometimes I just take the leads
and just squeeze up against the soldering iron tip. Once you know itís at
the right temperature then you get to pull this lead right out, like that. Now, we have
to clear the holes out, so we get the new part in. Okay, this is where, solder
braid or solder wick comes in handy. You just put it on top like that, once
the solder comes up in temperature, it should clear that hole out because the solder will
be attracted to the copper braid.
And go ahead and do the R11 also. And this board does have some track damage. Like that.
Now, the holes are cleared up.
Okay. Here, Iíve turned the board over. Hereís our R11. Iíve bent the leads to about half
inch spacing and here is the Q6.
Now, you got to make sure you have the flat side that matches the silkscreen on the board.
You canít put this in backwards. Which you can put this one in either way.
Their R11 doesnít care which way you put it back in. Iím going to push them to
the board, turn the board over and weíll go from there.
Okay. Here, I have the leads poked through and I also, I spread the R11 resistors out
the leads. So, weíll keep it in there so it donít fall out and then we take our
solder. Now, when you solder, you got to make sure you donít use too much heat.
You should just put enough heat on it so the solder flows. Like that. These boards are
low cost boards. Thatís why they tear up so easy. The copper tracks are pretty
thin plus you donít have ñ theyíre not double sided which helps make the
parts stay in better also.
Okay, here we go. Go ahead and scrape some of the green stuff off the tracks here. That
will expose the copper. Iím just using a little screw driver. You can use X-Actotm
knife, whatever will scrape it and then you just bend the resistor down
like that. Then we will cut it and remove the lead. And then you just take your solder.
And this is how you repair the tracks, if you use the copper wire piece you
got in your kit also. And you just do that. So, it will just form into that
one track. And then that will repair it. Okay. Next, we will cut the Q6 leads, the three
of them, get those out of the way. Now, we have to repair this track, just make
sure we have a good continuity. So, we will cut this right ñ just before we
get to the lead for the triac. Then Iíll push it down. Iíve already scraped that track
by the way on my previous repair.
I was just practicing on this board and then you just go like this. You got to make sure
you get the track hot enough to, along with the lead, that way they will bond
together with the solder. And there you have your repair. You can see the
R11ís here. We had to repair both tracks. We just folded it over, re-solder it and we
folded this over and re-solder. And here is the Q6, three leads. Okay. Here, we
have the new R11 and the new Q6 installed. Make sure you have the flat side
matching the silkscreen as I mentioned before, you donít want to put this part in backwards.
So, when we take this board back to the machine, if we are at a table
or a work bench, weíll go and wrap the foil back up to protect it and then we
can carry it across to the machine and reinstall it and try it out.